Beyond the golden door lies a wondrous world, a haven of calm, elegance, charm. Exotic plants, trees and blossoms, pools and fountains, ancient artifacts, corners for lounging …
The enchanting paradise is the courtyard of Dar El Gaied, a guesthouse in Nabeul, Tunisia, a very special guesthouse. A “dar” is a traditional Tunisian house constructed around an open courtyard with high walls to shield against the blazing Tunisian sun. Colorful tiles, plants and pools may add to the courtyard décor.
A Tunisian dar is similar to a riad in Morocco, and like riads, many dars offer guest accommodation. My two-day stay at Dar El Gaied was a delight, a trip highlight – one or those very special places you hope to return to.
Donia Maamouri, who owns the dar with her husband, welcomed me with her two friendly dogs, Atos and Maya. She explained that Dar El Gaied was built at the end of the 19th century and was the family home of her husband’s grandfather. After 20 years of restoration, they opened it as a “maison d’hote” (guesthouse) in 2018.
“We had no choice” she says, “either abandon it or open a maison d’hote. It was not adapted to modern life. It was a challenge.”
All guesthouse dars serve breakfast. Dar El Gaied also serves lunch and dinner by request. I had more than a fabulous dinner – a cooking class/demonstration as well.
Jamel Ramadhani is the dar chef when needed. He has worked as a chef in many countries and is a master of numerous cuisines. French cuisine, he says, is his favorite.
I love watching professional cooks – so speedy, efficient, organized (everything I am not). I observed and took notes as he whipped up an incredible multi-course dinner : soupe de legumes, salade Mechouia, brik au thon, filet de loup avec sauce agrumes aux pignons, riz piaf, fruits de saison, gateau Tunisien.
(Vegetable soup, Mechouia salad, brik with tuna, sea bass with citrus sauce and pine nuts, rice pilaf, seasonal fruits and Tunisian cake.)
Dar El Gaied is on a quiet street at the edge of the Nabeul medina. I had fun browsing its many shops where ceramics, a noted product of Nabeul, are the star.
Colourful ceramics, the perfect souvenir.
Part II to this post coming soon – 2 easy recipes from my dinner at Dar El Gaied.
dar-elgaied.com
For more on Tunisia, see previous posts: In Awe of Tunisia and Hold the Harissa
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