Dining in France – Page 2 – Tales and Travel

Paris in December

We went to Paris to visit the dentist, but not just any dentist. An American dentist, fabulous Dr. Jane. Sure, there are plenty of dentists in Provence. But, the profession of dental hygienist does not exist in France. Here cleaning is merely detartrage, scrapping the tartar off the teeth, a procedure carried out by the dentist which takes all of 10 minutes or less.

Not good enough for Americans who have been brainwashed about the importance of a thorough cleaning by a hygienist every six months. In Germany where we previously lived most dentists have hygienists. After moving here, we’d trek back to Germany once a year for a proper cleaning. (Since it was such a long journey, we made due with one cleaning per year.) Fellow American and friend Lynne came to the rescue. She found Dr. Jane in Paris. Our teeth have never been so clean.

Dr. Jane Matkoski, who hails from New York State, does high tech teeth cleaning, first with ultra sound followed by a special process called Air Flow. She covers your eyes with a cloth, then puts goggles on top of the cloth and air polishes the teeth. “Today’s flavor is cassis,” she told me. I like cassis, but this was salty and none too pleasant. BB likened the procedure to sand blasting. Whatever, it does the job par excellence.

One fourth of Dr. Jane’s patients are Americans. She also has many international patients who are used to a real teeth cleaning. “The French just don’t get it,” she said.

While teeth were the main reason for the trip, it was a good excuse to visit my favorite city. We had time to see friends, to visit Le Café des Chats, to tour the Marais district with a Paris Greeter, to apply for visas for our upcoming trip to Myanmar – and to check out the Christmas lights in the City of Light.

On a previous trip to Paris in December, I found the holiday illumination on the Champs Elysees spectacular. This time I was underwhelmed. Perhaps it’s a sign of age, but lots of colors and flashing lights are not my cup of tea. This year giant hula hoops that change from blue to red encircle the bare trees lining the legendary boulevard. Tacky – in my opinion.

There’s nothing tacky, however, about the wondrous windows at Galeries Lafayette. Amazing, moveable scenes, five from the tale Beauty and the Beast. Mesmerizing for both children and their parents. The classy windows at Au Printemps, this year sponsored by Prada, are also dazzling.

Thanks to Satié, the cousin of my Japanese sister-in-law Yoshie, we did not miss these Parisian holiday highlights. Satié lives in Paris. After dinner together, she suggested we stroll by the windows.

As a cat lover, I had to visit Le Café des Chats which opened in September, modeled after a cat café in Tokyo. Cats, 12 of them, all colors and sizes, lounging in windows, on chairs, benches, and in kitty beds. Some are sociable, but many were soundly sleeping, the favorite pastime of felines.

Upon entering rules are recited by the café host: Don’t feed the cats. Don’t let the cats drink from your cup or glass. Don’t disturb the cats if they are sleeping. Photos allowed, but no flash. Before entering the rooms with the cats, you must disinfect your hands – a dispenser is on the counter.

The two-level cozy café in Paris’ third district was packed during our visit. The café has generated a lot of publicity and is popular with locals as well as tourists. Reservations are a must. Coffee, teas, wine, desserts, salads and tartes can be savored while watching cats. It was fun but frustrating. My pathetic photo skills required flash in the poor light. So, no super kitty pictures. The food was good –a seafood salad for BB and a tarte with caramelized onions, blue cheese, cranberries and pecans for me.

A blog (http://aixcentric.wordpress.com) led me to Paris Greeters, an organization of volunteers who give guided tours of their neighborhoods. There is no charge but you are requested to give a donation. Sign up on line before visiting Paris, specifying your interests, and you are matched with a greeter.

Claudine in front of her favoirte tea shop, Mariage Freres, a must for tea aficionadas.

Claudine Chevrel, who has lived in the Marais since 1972, led us through this beautiful district. Historic buildings, her favorite shops, churches and monuments were on the tour.

Le Marais, literally “the swamp,” was mostly farmland in the Middle Ages, producing vegetables for the city on the Seine. By the 16^th century, the nobility and upper middle class bought up the land and built great estates. For the next couple of centuries, family palaces and grand buildings found their home in the Marais.

The arrondissement (administrative district), which is now very expensive and chic, was not that way when she moved there many years ago, Claudine said. “I prefer the Maris 10 years ago. It used to be a real neighborhood.” There were lots of local shops and groceries, she explained. Many have been replaced by expensive boutiques and art galleries. “Everyone knew everyone. Now lots of foreigners who don’t live here year round have bought apartments.”

The Marais has both a large Jewish community and one of the largest Gay communities in Europe. We especially liked the Jewish area. Numerous shops tout that they offer the “best falafel.” Claudine says the best is at the restaurant Chez Marianne which also has a bakery where BB bought a thick slice of nut strudel – they offer 12 different kinds for 3 euros per slice.

“I always meet interesting people who want to see Paris in a different way,” says Claudine. “Americans prefer this type of tour. They like to meet Parisians. They ask lots of questions, about everyday life, taxes, schools.”

After the two-hour plus tour we set off to find her favorite restaurant, Le Louis Philippe, which we had passed during our walk. En route we came across Caruso. As we have a weakness for all things Italian and there are few Italian restaurants in Provence, it was our lunch stop. Buonissimo! Exquisite pasta, and BB’s dessert, Cassata Siciliana, was deliciously decadent, cake smothered in a mascarpone-cream-candided fruit-alcoholic combination. I found several recipes on line and will try to duplicate it soon.

Before boarding the TGV for a fast train ride back to Provence, we met friendsLeonard and Claudine for lunch at L’Epigramme, a restaurant in the 6^th district which is included in “Best Restaurants Paris.” I had a very juicy and tender piece of beef. The others went for dorade, a popular fish in France. All were happy.

Next visit to Dr. Jane, we’ll go back there, and to Caruso, and tour another neighborhood with a Paris Greeter.

Happy Holidays to all Tales and Travel readers!

Dr. Jane Matkoski, 12 rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre (5ème), 01 46 34 56 44 drjane@orange.fr

Le Café des Chats, 16 rue Michel Le Comte (3ème). Metro: Rambuteau or Arts et Metiers. Make a reservation at reservation@lecafedeschats.fr

Paris Greeters, www.parisgreeters.fr

Caruso, 3 Rue de Turenne (4 ème). Metro : St. Paul, www.ristorantecaruso.fr

L’Epigramme, 9 rue de l’Eperon (6 ème). Metro : Odeon, 01 44 41 00 09

I love to hear from readers. Please post a comment. See “Leave a Reply” below under Comments. Subscribers also welcome. Don’t miss future posts. Click on Email Subscription at top right.

If you have suggestions for Paris restaurants, please pass them on. I have not posted any recipes lately, but for your holiday cooking, check on Holiday Fruitcake and Holiday Pork Roast in the recipe column at right.

Villa Augustine: Fine French dining, turn-of-the-century elegance

“Everywhere you look; it’s a feast for the eyes. It’s a magical place.”

We were sitting around the fireplace in a stylish salon of exquisite furnishings enjoying an apero when a friend made that comment. It was our first time at the Villa Augustine shortly after it opened in April 2012.

The turn-of-the- century mansion in the Vaucluse city of Apt, the capital of the Luberon, was originally owned by a wealthy family, proprietors of ochre mines. Their fortune plunged in the 1930s. The splendid home was abandoned for many years and in a dreadful state. Along came two Parisians, Guy and Christophe, to rescue the magnificent structure. Restoration took three years. Tracking down the furnishings and objets d’art took even longer. Guy and Christophe, both fans of 20^th century arts décoratifs, combed France and neighboring countries to find original Art Nouveau pieces to enhance the interior in keeping with the period. Signed objects by Majorelle, Ruhlmann, Leuleu, Royere and others are among the treasures.

Today Villa Augustine is a sanctuary of calm and beauty in the midst of busy Apt just above the river Calavon. There are five chambres d’hote (B&B) rooms and gorgeous gardens planted with Italian inspiration. A more than 200-year-old cedar of Lebanon, classified as one of the most beautiful trees in the Luberon, is the pièce de resistance amidst flowers, cypress and olive trees. An inviting pool on a terrace above the villa is a delightful surprise offering stunning views of Apt and the Luberon hills. Not to forget – food, which is Guy’s realm. The ex-banker has always been passionate about cooking. Here he has the opportunity to indulge in his favorite pastime and prepare gourmet cuisine several evenings per week. His cuisine, he says, is influenced by his Spanish origins and Algeria, where he was born. And, the flavors of Provence, of course. There is a set menu, and reservations are a must as he can serve no more than 20 diners, but up to 40 for special events. During warm weather months, the spacious terrace in front of the villa is often a venue for the latter – concerts, fashion shows, art and photo exhibits.

During our first visit we had a complete tour and admired each unique bedroom with adjoining baths, many delightfully retro. A mirror from a buffet is the headboard for the double bed in one room. One bedroom is done in the style of the ‘50s, and another reflects the ‘40s.

Dinner – either outdoors under trellises on the terrace where huge pots of plants in bloom create an upscale ambience of greenery, or indoors in the dining room with its precious décor, is special. So is the food. Our first dinner in 2011 featured Noix de Saint-Jacques a l’artichaut et l’andouillette, jus de
crustaces, (scallops à l’ artichoke and sausage with the juice of crustaceans).

Last week we savored an excellent meal – a belated birthday treat for step-daughter Kellie and her friend Luka visiting from New York City. It began with a “mise en bouche” (pre-starter), a healthy gamba with a puree of mango and a mini glass filled with chantilly (whipped cream) of chevre (goat cheese). The entrée, carpaccio of tuna with a spinach sauce, was very flavorful – my favorite. Cod with ratatouille creatively stuffed in mini peppers accompanied the perfectly cooked fish surrounded by a coulis of tomato and juice of palourde (tomato sauce made with the juice of the clam perched on top of the cod). Dessert: roasted figs in fig liqueur with vanilla ice cream. Wine: a bottle each of an excellent Burgundy white and a Burgundy red suggested by Christophe. A fitting birthday meal in a magical place!

Guy and Christophe, who had the distinction of being the first gay couple married in Apt after the recent change in French law which now legalizes gay marriage, are overjoyed with the success of their endeavor.

“We are very happy with the speed in which we have succeeded to develop a faithful clientele,” says Guy. The chambre d’hote has been fully booked since April this year, he added. “Normally this would take four or five years.”

Rooms range in price from 100 to 150 euros per night. Three course dinners with two mise-en-bouches at 40 euros per person. Villa Augustine is open from mid March through the end of October. More information at www.lavillaaugustine.com

Have you dined at Villa Augustine? Share your view. I love to hear from readers. See “Leave a Reply” below under Comments. Followers also welcome. Don’t miss future posts. Click on Email Subscription at top right.

A recipe to try: Linguine with Shrimp, Tomatoes and Feta Sabraw. Scroll down recipe column at right.

A Taste of Marseille

My article on Marseille which follows was recently published in the newspapers Stars and Stripes and the Houston Chronicle. A slightly different version will soon appear on the dynamite travel web site: www.travelsquire.com Check it out for a wealth of travel info. Marseille is hot — this year named a European Capital of Culture. Read on — and plan a visit.

It’s a tiny place, all decked out with souvenirs of the sea: shells and stuffed fish in nets dangling from the ceiling, a bench with bold orange life vests as cushions around a big corner table, a wall plastered with small sardine cans. Perfect décor for La Bôite à Sardine, a popular Marseille eatery. A few regulars down pastis, the licorice flavored drink of Provence, at a mini bar while chef Celine is busy on the other side with lunch preparations.

Outside proprietor Fabian arranges freshly caught fish on a sidewalk table. Another display of creatures that had been swimming in the Mediterranean a few hours earlier greets us at the entrance.

My husband and I had come to Marseille from our home in northern Provence to savor treats from the sea for which this port city is famous.

We were charmed with La Bôite à Sardine — and even more so when Fabian sat us at a table with two friendly women, Jeanne Feutren, 68, and her mother, Claire Gilormini, 93, who live nearby.

”We come here because the fish is fresh. It’s delivered every morning. That’s rare. We know,” said Feutren, who, like her mother, was born in France’s second city, is a retired English teacher, and, like most natives, a diehard fan of this fascinating city, the oldest in France.

They, and many others, began their meal with platters of oysters. I asked for Fabian’s recommendations, and he suggested we split an order of calamari, then move on to sole for the main course. “It’s the season for sole,” he explained. “They are full of eggs. The taste is the best.” The squid were in a tasty sauce with a side dish of panisse, a local specialty made with chickpea flour. The sole, lightly fried, was exquisite. Fabian made sure we did not miss the cheeks, the minute and delicate portion of flesh under the fish’s eyes.

“I love Marseille. It’s so cosmopolitan,” said Feutren. “You can meet the whole world here. We have the sea, the sand, hills, the calanques (dramatic coastline cliffs). People are so exuberant.” Her mother interjected. “It’s a wonderful town. We have sun year round. It’s January, but look at the weather.” (It was glorious. Marseille has 300 days of sunshine, the highest number of sunny days in France.)

Now is the time to visit. Marseille is the European Capital of Culture for 2013 with a wealth of activities on the agenda this year. The New York Times rated Marseille second in its list of “46 places to visit in 2013.”

Crime, drugs, violence, the Mafia – the city’s reputation was shrouded by all for years. Fortunately policing and public security have improved somewhat. Nonetheless, as in any big city, caution is advised.

What to See:

Vieux Port. The old port is the heart of this city that was founded by the Greeks six centuries before Christ. Every morning fishermen unload their catch at the tip of the port, the Quai des Belges, for the fish market where locals survey the specimens and tourists take photos. “Soles vivantes,” fish still flapping in a shallow pool of water, were a hot item recently, no doubt because it was the sole season as we had learned from Fabian. On one table, an octopus slithered back and forth in a tray. The 17^th century Hotel de Ville, the centuries-old home of the city government, is on the right side of the quai facing the water.

New at the Vieux Port is Norman Foster’s Ombrière, a giant mirror hanging above the repaved waterfront. Slender columns hold a thin sheet of polished steel aloft. Reflected are all those passing underneath, from gnarled fishermen to strolling pedestrians.

Pavilion M. This temporary structure of wood and glass erected for Marseille 2013 in the Place Bargemon near the Vieux Port has exhibits on the city and its people. Visit the tourist office on the upper floor for information about special events this year. Tickets for events are also on sale here.

Chateau d’If. Take a boat from the Vieux Port to his legendary castle, France’s Alcatraz. King Francois I had it built in the 16^th century as a fort outside the harbor. It never saw battle, but became a prison. Its most illustrious inmate was Edmond Dantès whom Alexandre Dumas immortalized in The Count of Monte Cristo.

Le Panier. Steep steps from the Vieux Port climb the hills of this district whose narrow, cobbled alleys are reminiscent of ancient Mediterranean cities like Naples and Lisbon. The Place des Moulins was once the home of 15 windmills where flour was milled. The name “panier” (basket) is thought to come from the baskets used to carry bread. Check out the boutiques on rue du Petit-Puits. The whimsical ceramics at number 7, Serge Mautarlier, are a delight.

Vielle Charité. This striking architectural masterpiece in Le Panier was a home for the city’s poor in the 17^th century when Louis XIV decided poor folks on the streets were bad news. It housed up to 1,000 needy residents. The noted architect Le Corbusier recognized its beauty in the 1950s which led to renovation. The complex of columned arcades includes a Baroque domed chapel.

Notre Dame de la Garde. A golden statue of the “Bonne Mère” tops this Romanesque-Byzantine basilica at the highest point of the city, 500 feet above the harbor, majestically watching over Marseille’s 860,000 inhabitants. Hike up the hill, or take bus number 60 from the old port, and enjoy the best views of the city and nearby islands.

La Canebière. The grand boulevard of Marseille which leads from the Vieux Port. A bit shabby, the Champs Élysée it is not, although it was modeled after the Parisian avenue. Some of the buildings are worth admiring, such as the one with caryatides housing the store C&A at number 53

Calanques/Beaches. Sightseeing boats from the Vieux Port opposite the Hotel de Ville offer coastal tours to admire the stunning cliffs and deep fiord-like inlets between Marseille and Cassis. Marseille has 16 beaches along its 57 kilometers of coastline. The Plage des Catalans offers golden sand, while soft gravel covers the Plage du Prado. Both are crowded in summer.

Markets. In addition to the fish market, this vibrant city has numerous morning markets offering everything from clothing to spices, fruits and vegetables to hardware. The merchandise for sale reflects the diversity of the city’s population which includes 200,000 Italians, 150,000 Corsicans, and

400,000 Muslims (mostly from Algeria). Arab specialties are found at the Marché les Noailles on side streets to the right at the end of Canebière just a few hundred meters from the Vieux Port, every morning except Sunday. Nearby is the Marché des Capucins for fruit and vegetables, also daily except Sunday. Everything imaginable is for sale at the huge Marché du Prado along the this main artery of the city. Tuesday through Saturday.

Bouillabaisse. Marseille is the capital of this legendary fisherman’s soup. It’s said to taste better there than anywhere else because of the variety and freshness of ingredients – several kinds of fish. It’s a hearty meal beginning with the fish broth served with aioli, garlic mayonnaise, and rouille, aioli with cayenne pepper. Smear the mayos on toast rounds which you submerge in the soup. Then comes a huge platter of the fish and potatoes. It’s a pricey dish, between 53 and 60 euros per person at these restaurants all known for authentic bouillabaisse: Le Rhul, chez Michel, Le Miramar and chez Fonfon. A less expensive but authentic version can be ordered ahead at Chez Madie Les Galinettes at the Vieux Port. Other restaurants along the Vieux Port also offer bouillabaisse for less, but it may not be the genuine version.

More new buildings to come. This area near the cathedral will house shops and restaurants.

New Attractions: Villa Méditerranée and Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations (MUCEM). Continue down the waterfront from the Vieux Port to an abandoned pier (J4) that is now all spiffed up and the site of avant-garde architecture. The Villa Méditerranée looks much like a supersized diving board with a vast exhibition hall jutting towards the sea and suspended above a pool of water. It will host exhibitions, but it is primarily a place to provide contact for all Mediterranean countries with the focus on cultural and artistic exchanges. There is no charge to enter and wander around, although there is a charge for exhibitions.

President Francois Hollande will inaugurate MUCEM on June 4. Doors open to the public on June 7. This striking structure, a squat glass building shielded from the harsh Mediterranean sun by a dark concrete filigree veil, echoes the architecture of North Africa. Exhibits from national museums will illustrate the theme of Mediterranean civilization.

The J4 area and the adjacent old Fort St. Jean are linked by a 130-meter walkway overlooking a dock. You can stroll in the public Mediterranean garden suspended on the heights of the Fort and lap up the stunning panoramic views over the sea and city.

Where to stay:

Hôtel Escale Oceania Marseille Vieux Port

The location does not get any better than this, just adjacent to the Vieux Port. The small (45 rooms) newly renovated hotel does not offer luxury, but it does have all you need, including free Internet access. Ask for a superior room with a balcony for superb views of the Vieux Port and Notre Dame de la Garde. 5 La Canebière, 04 91 90 61 61

http://www.oceaniahotels.com/hotel-escale-oceania-marseille

Church tower and war monument at the upper end of La Canbiere.

Where to eat:

La Bôite à Sardine, fish restaurant as described in article, 7 Boulevard de la libération, 04 91 50 95 95, www.laboiteasardine.com

Le Café des Epices, gastronomic brasserie near the Vieux Port, a tiny but bustling place with innovative cuisine. There is a terrace in front of the restaurant for outdoor dining. Many of the customers are regulars who greet the talented chef with the obligatory air kiss on each cheek. 4 Rue du Lacydon, 04 91 91 22 69. Restaurant does not have a web site.

Pizzeria Jeannot. Much more than a pizzeria, this large restaurant offers all manner of seafood and grilled meats, in addition to a variety of pizzas. The location, tucked in a tiny fishing port just outside the heart of the city, is a delight. 129 Vallon des Auffes, 04 91 52 11 28. www.pizzeriachezjeannot.net

Chez Fonfon. If it’s authentic bouillabaisse you seek, try this well-known restaurant (mentioned in the article) located almost next door to Pizzeria Jeannot, but with a classy ambience on the second floor of a building with lovely views of the sea and the mini harbor full of boats. 140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes, 04 91 52 14 38, www.chez-fonfon.com

MORE MARSEILLE

For the best home made Italian ice cream, Le Glacier du Roi, 55/49 arret Place de Lenche, www.leglacierduroi.lesite.pro

Florence Bianchi offers a taste of her luscious ice cream.

For the city’s famous traditional cookies (Navettes – flavored with orange flower water ), Navettes des Accoules, 68 Rue Caisserie, http://www.les-navettes-des- accoules.fr

Travel throughout the city by bus and/or metro (two lines). A one-day City Pass at 22 euros ($28.50) includes use of both bus and metro for 24 hours, a roundtrip boat trip to Chateau d’If, a ride on the tourist train to Notre Dame de la Garde or through the Old Town and Panier, entrance to all museums, a guided tour, plus some discounts. Tickets at Pavilion M, the city tourist office at the Vieux Port or at resamarseille.com

Marseille also has Hop-on-Hop Off buses running between April 1 and Oct. 31 which stop at 13 different locations. Tickets for one or two days from 18 euros ($23) can be purchased on board.

Sightseeing boat trip of the calanques: two hour trip: 22 euros. ($28.50) Details at www.visite-des-calanques.com. Boats run daily from April through October.

Boat excursions to Chateau d’If, from 15,20 euros, ($19.50) http://www.frioul-if-express.com/ Boats run daily year round.

There is free ferry service from one side of the Vieux Port to the other.

More at www.marseille-tourisme.com

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In love with Paris (with restaurant tips)

Gloomy gray clouds shrouded the March sun. The waters of the Seine were dull and dismal. No flowers blooming in the Jardin du Luxembourg.

St.-Suplice -- near our Paris chanbre d'hote. — St.-Suplice — near our Paris chambre d’hote.

It was spring in Paris, the week before Easter. Hardy souls braved the chill and sat outdoors at sidewalk cafes, but bundled up in their winter wardrobes.

Like in much of Europe this year, winter in Paris was not about to make a timely exit. Never mind. For me, Paris is always fabulous. Even without the warmth and sparkle of sunshine, husband Bob and I enjoyed good food, museum visits, fun shopping, and meeting friends during our recent stay in my favorite city. And, we did have a few hours of glorious sun.

The reason for this trip was a watch. Not just any watch, but an antique enameled pocket watch my mother had given me years ago. She said it was worth ”thousands” and I should take it to a museum. It has been buried in a drawer for years. I decided I’d like to sell it and was advised to take it to a classy auction house in Paris. My dear mother suffered from visions of grandeur. Alas the precious watch was not even gold, and not of great worth – but that’s another saga, perhaps another blog.

Watch aside, we kept busy in Paris. Chagall is the focus of a popular exhibit now in the city until July 21, 2013. We set out to see “Chagall Between War and Peace” at the Musée du Luxembourg. Merde — long lines to get in. We are short on patience, but decided to wait it out. The exhibit is extensive and impressive. Unfortunately we found too many people crowded around the chef d’oeuvres. Many stop to photograph the paintings with their cell phones. All a bit claustrophobic, and a pity. I adore Chagall, but could not enjoy his masterpieces in that congested ambience.

The Musée d’Orsay is always a delight. Here too there were long lines for admittance. But, book tickets on line and you can waltz right by the crowds and in the door. We wandered around the second floor admiring magnificent art and Art Nouveau furnishings.

Long lines at Musee d'Orsay. — Long lines at Musee d’Orsay.

All very pleasant. Then up to the fifth floor to see the Impressionists. A mad house. Groups of school children sitting on the floor around paintings as teachers lectured. Hordes of on-lookers crowded around the famous works. We gave up.

A tiny museum with no crowds recommended by a friend is the Musée Dapper with exhibits on African art. We enjoyed an exhibit on African design – strange

chairs and weird wooden head rests which serve as pillows. Interesting, but more so was the collection of large photographs of tribal kings and chiefs from all corners of Africa in all their colorful and amusing regalia. We had the museum to ourselves, and I found an unusual and striking necklace from Senegal in the gift shop.

What every cook needs -- onion goggles. — What every cook needs — onion goggles.

The best trip souvenir, however, is the pair of Oniongoggles that Bob spotted in a kitchen shop. Brilliant. Chop away at onions and never shed a tear. I love them. Two musts for Paris shopping are La Grande Epicerie Paris, the

food hall next door to Le Bon Marché, and the basement of the BHV department store. Food products from all over the world can be found at the former where we head straight to the USA section. We were overjoyed. They stock canned pumpkin (two brands) as

American products at La Greande Epicerie Paris. — American products at La Grande Epicerie Paris.

well as whole cranberry sauce. Bob goes for the cranberries. I use the pumpkin in numerous recipes. Of course, they stock other Ami favorites not available in French supermarkets. Beware: All cost far more than they would at Kroger’s.

The BHV basement is the mother of all hardware stores. They even have a shoe repair section where you can have belts

made, as well as shoes repaired. We like the large selection of off-the-wall signs.

Food is always at the top of our list. As Paris is very expensive, I did extensive research before departure to zero in on good but affordable eateries. Fancy Michelin starred restaurants are beyond our budget. There were winners and losers.

Our first meal this trip took us back to a favorite, Chez Fernand. We split an entrée of ravioli de Royan, tiny raviolis in a tasty chive cream sauce, then each had fish – one cod and one sea bass. Both prepared to perfection and served with spinach purée. A meal is not a meal without dessert for Bob. He ordered crème brulée. Tab with a half liter of wine: 80,50 euros. ($103)

The most amazing bargain was in the 13^th arrondissement at Lao Lane Xang which specializes in Laotian, Vietnamese and Thai cuisines. A luncheon special of four different dishes plus a glass of wine: 10,80 euros. ($13.80) I chose Huong Lan, a Vietnamese combo: Pâtés impériaux au poulet, salade de papaye vietnamienne au bœuf sèche, poulet au caramel and riz blanc parfumé. Bob went for the Thai plateau with a main dish of poulet au lait de coco et curry rouge. For dessert he tried Mokeng coconut flan, a creamy green concoction that was excellent.

We love Italian food. Unfortunately in the area of Provence where we live, except for pizzerias, Italian restaurants do not exist. A Paris favorite in the 6^th is Il Suppli, a tiny, cozy romantic spot on two levels. Here we split a mixed salad, then each had an excellent pasta creation. Bob’s dessert, Tiramisu, was a disappointment. But the wine, a bottle of Montepulciano, was good. This, plus two coffees: 87 euros. ($111)

Another bargain lunch awaited at Au Rocher de Cancale, a place dating back

to the early 19^th century that was mentioned in a New York Times article. We dined upstairs surrounded mainly by young Parisians, all indulging in enormous salads. The restaurant must have at least a dozen different salad combinations. We split an Italian salad (14,50 euros) then each had one of the specials of the day (14,60 euros each), cod with copious quantities of green beans and cauliflower purée. (We like fish). Here the dessert boy had to pass. He was stuffed. Total for above plus a half liter of wine and two coffees: 64,90 euros. ($83)

Most fun meal: A la Biche au Bois which was also recommended in my reading, including kudos from Patricia Wells, former food editor of the International Herald Tribune and one of my food idols. It is also close to the Gare de Lyon, so we could eat and then catch the train home.

The restaurant is a typical bustling Parisian bistro — crowded, noisy, with very good, basic bistro fare. Our waiter, Bernard, was chatty and helpful. He had lived in Canada and was happy to speak English. The price was right, four

Bertrand knows his wine. — Bernard knows his wine.

courses: entrée, main dish, cheese and dessert, 29.80 euro per person. The entrées were not that exciting – a poached egg creation for me and rillettes of salmon for Bob. For the main course, I ordered the daily special, partridge, and Bob went for a restaurant specialty, Coq au Vin. Both very good. Bernard recommended a wonderful white wine, Menetou-Salon, Domaine Phillipe Gilbert (near Sancerre). And, he gave us each a shot of cognac for a “bon voyage.” Two menus plus a bottle of wine: 84,10 euros. ($108)

: Partridge- a delicious delicacy.

In our neighborhood, we tried two other restaurants, La Boussole and La Giara – neither worth a repeat.

We also had a very delicious (Osso Buco) and memorable meal chez friends Leonard and Claudine. Leonard is a former colleague of mine from the military

newspaper Stars and Stripes in Germany. He still lives in Darmstadt part time, and part time with Claudine in a lovely apartment on the 28^th floor of a building in an area called Olympiades. The huge apartment windows offer great views of the sprawling city with Sacre Coeur on a distant hilltop.

My Japanese sister-in-law who lives in Boulder has a cousin in Paris whom she has never met. We met Sachie at a café and had a delightful chat. We hope she will come to visit us in Provence – and that my sister-in-law Yoshie will get to meet her charming cousin one day.

Sun would have been welcome, but even without it, Paris was wonderful. Of course, it would have been even better if I could have peddled the watch for “thousands.”

For friend Jane’s birthday, I made Rum Cake. See recipe in Recipe column at right. Comments on blog post and recipes are welcome. See “Leave a Reply” below under Comments. Subscribers also welcome. Don’t miss future posts. Click on Email Subscription at top right.

More Information:

Dapper Museum, 35 rue Paul Valéry, Metro: Victor Hugo, www.dapper.com

Musée du Luxembourg, 19 rue de Vaugirard, Metro : Luxembourg, www.museeduluxembourg.fr

Musée d’Orsay, 62 rue de Lille, Metro : Musée d’Orsay or Solferino, www.musee-orsay.fr

La Grande Epicerie Paris, the food hall next door to Le Bon Marché, 24 Rue de Sèvres, Metro: Sèvres-Babylone, www.bonmarche.fr

BHV, 52-64 rue de Rivoli, Metro : Hôtel de Ville, www.bhv.fr

Chez Fernand, 13, rue Guisarde, Tel: 01 43 54 61 47, Metro: Mabillon (open 7 days a week)

Lao Lane Xang, 102 Ave. d’Ivry, Tel. 01 58 89 00 00, Metro: Tolbiac

Il Suppli, 2, rue de condé, Tel. 01 40 46 99 74, Metro: Odéon

Au Rocher de Cancale, 78 rue Montorgueil, Tel. 01 42 33 50 29, Metro: Châtelet-Les Halles

A la Biche au Bois, 45 Ave. Ledru Rolllin, Tel. 01 43 43 34 38, Metro: Gare de Lyon

Fine Dining à la Française

One of the reasons we were happy to move to France is food. The cuisine here is hard to beat. When we lived in Germany and were both working, hence a better income, we loved to make eating excursions to nearby Alsace. The dollar was stronger back then, too. Sometimes we would splurge and eat in a Michelin starred restaurant.

Since moving here and living on a fixed income, we’ve been happy with local restaurants, most of which are reasonable. But, since the dollar is faring better these days, and since it was Valentine’s Day, I wanted to try a Michelin one-star restaurant, La Petite Maison, in nearby Curcuron. I called and learned they had a special multi-course menu for Valentine’s Day – 120 euros ($159) per person. That did include wine and champagne, but nonetheless way beyond our budget. On regular days they offer a three-course menu for 46 euros ($61) per person, excluding wine.

We decided to celebrate Valentine Day’s in a more economical fashion, but try La Petite Maison a few days later. On February 14 we lunched at the restaurant at Lycée des Métiers Louis Martin Bret in the town of Manosque. This is a professional school with a department where aspiring chefs and restaurant personnel are trained. Several days per week at the school restaurant they offer lunches and dinner. The menu is fixed – few choices—but good and reasonable. The ambience is pleasing – fresh roses on the table, the young waiters and waitresses all looking spiffy in black jackets and pants, white shirts and baby-blue ties. This time there were two choices offered for each course. We chose the following. Our average rating on a scale of 1 – 10 (10 is tops) follows.

First course: Profiteroles à la mousse de foie gras sur roquette. Three rounds of chou pastry, each filled with a different type of foie gras mousse, attractively arranged around a mound of arugula, with threads of spun sugar on top for added flair. One was decorated with stripes of chocolate sauce. The others were accompanied by tiny mounds of chutneys. Yummy. In my opinion, you can never go wrong with foie gras. Rating: 8.5

Main course: Dos de cabillaud, semoule aux raisins, carrots fanes glacées. A slice of cod with a piece of the fried skin as decoration, served with a semolina/raisin mixture and glazed carrots. Tasty, but unfortunately we found the fish overcooked, which is too often the case with fish. Rating: 5.25

Dessert: Pêches flambêes sur glaces. Flambéd peaches served on ice cream. It was fun watching our young waiters, Nicolas, 15,(left) and Jimmy, 15, undertake the flaming procedure. They handled it like pros, and the result was delicious – the vanilla ice cream full of flavor and obviously homemade. Rating; 7.5

We began the meal with an ”apéro,” a before dinner drink that is de rigeur in France. We ordered the cocktail of the day, a concoction of rum, orange juice, coconut milk and sugar. With the meal, we drank a half liter of open white wine. After dessert, we each had a coffee. Total tab for two: 40 euros ($53).

Two days later we went for broke and had lunch in Curcuron at the renowned La Petite Maison with our friends Gayle and Ralph. We economized on the apéro – a pre-dinner drink at the village café next door. For two glasses of champagne, a beer and a Pastis, the bill was 14 euros ($18.50) La Petite Maison charges the same for one glass of champagne.

Two fixed menus were offered, at 46 and 68 euros each. We all selected the less expensive one. Beef was the main course. Bob is not big on beef, so he was permitted to substitute fish.

At this classy place, we were given an amuse-bouche ( appetizer ) a velouté de lentil et une tartine avec rillette de saumon. A creamy lentil soup topped with a toasted wedge of bread spread with a salmon pâté. Gayle thought it was outstanding. I wasn’t that overwhelmed. Rating: 7.8

First course: Céleri et pomme verte rémoulade rehaussé de dés de saumon fumé, oeuf au plat coulant. A colorful combination of diced celery and green apple topped with tiny morsels of smoked salmon, all crowned with the yellow of an egg. Definitely a work of art to admire, and it was good, but perhaps not as flavorful as it looked. Rating: 6.5

Main course; Pièce de filet de boeuf d’origine européenne poêlée au poivre, pommes de terre fondantes. Filet of beef ( European origin) pan fried with pepper and served with interesting potatoes. (fondant means ‘‘melted,” but there was nothing melted about these potatoes. Maybe this is just fancy restaurant vocabulary). We were not asked how we wanted the beef cooked. It was served rare, a tad on the bloody side. This is the way French gourmets prepare beef. I love beef, and this is just the way I like it, so I was happy. Bob, who went for the fish substitute, was horrified at the bloody meat and very glad he chose monkfish served on a mousse of cauliflower. Sharing the plate with the beef were sliced potatoes topping a tasty crumb melange which reminded Gayle of turkey stuffing. She noted that this dish would have been better with an added portion of vegetable – perhaps something green for color. Rating: 7.4

Dessert: Croustade aux pommes et figues aux parfums d’orient, glace à la rose. A crusty concoction of phyllo pastry filled with Oriental flavored apples and figs next to a scoop of rose ice cream. Bob is a dessert fan and this was his favorite. I thought it was good, although I did not detect any Oriental flavors and the rose ice cream did not send me. Rating: 7.75

With the dessert a plate of small pots of a lemony-creamy liquid surrounded by mini cakes was placed on the table for us to share. A nice touch.

The restaurant is in an old house in the center of a charming village opposite a pond. The dining room, all wood-paneled, is a bit on the bare side – no décor, just tables with white table cloths. Our waitress, all dressed in black, was pleasant – she even corrected my French. That I appreciated. Chef and owner, Eric Sapet, has impressive credentials in the world of cuisine.

We ordered the cheapest bottle of red wine on the menu: a 2007 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, Domaine Hugues, Vendage des Chefs, 35 euros ($46). Total cost per couple, about $144.

Moral of the story: Forget the stars and save your money. We all agreed that we’ve had better food at la Table du Bonheur (see previous blog, “Table of Happiness”) for much less money.