A “Killing Field”: Genocide in Gaza

The tragic, depressing news is everywhere:  Ukraine, Gaza, the West Bank, Sudan, Myanmar, the Congo, Trump’s tariffs, Trump’s persecution and deportation of immigrants, Trump’s crack down on universities and free speech. The list seems endless.  But it’s the war in Gaza that tears at my heart.
 

Photo by Mohammed Abubakr

Some 52,000 slaughtered in the past 18 months.  At least another 14,222 trapped under the rubble and presumed dead, according to the Gaza Information Office. All are primarily innocent civilians, including women, children, 173 journalists and media workers, and at least 412 aid workers including 291 UN staff.  Injured: 115,729, including many, many children who will be disabled for life. Gaza has the highest number of child amputees per capita, and is incapable of taking care of them.

Palestinians evacuate the area following an Israeli airstrike on the Sousi mosque in Gaza City on October 9, 2023. . (Photo by Mahmud HAMS / AFP)

Since the first stage of the cease fire collapsed on March 18, nearly 1,600 Palestinians have been killed.

“Gaza is a killing field, and civilians are in an endless death loop,” said António Guterres, secretary general of the United Nations.

October 7 was horrific. 1,200 innocent Israelis were murdered. Hamas, which governs Gaza, is responsible. The remaining hostages captured by Hamas on October 7 must be released. Yet this war has dragged on for 18 months, and the crisis only intensifies. Hamas survives. IDF (Israeli Defense Forces) continues to kill with US supplied weapons. The US, both under the Biden administration and now even more so under Trump, has given Israel carte blanche to continue the massacre. More and more Palestinians perish.

Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu and his right-wing coalition seem intent on making Gaza unlivable.

M“Israel has succeeded in its goal to make Gaza inhabitable,” said Gavin Kelleher, an aide worker with the Norwegian Refugee Council.  The humanitarian needs are extreme, he said.  People are continually displaced, living in constant fear of military violence. “The goal is to force Palestinians to leave Gaza as soon as they are able.”  

This is the goal and hope, not just of Netanyahu, but also of Donald Trump who wants to turn the “prime real estate” into the Riviera of the Middle East.

This infuriates me. What about the people?  It’s their land. 
Arabs have occupied the territory for centuries. 

The history and background of Palestine are complicated. In the late 19th century Zionists sought to establish a home for the Jewish people in Ottoman-controlled Palestine.  In 1917, the British government issued the Balfour Declaration, endorsing the idea.   Jewish immigrants, mostly from eastern Europe, began moving to the area.  

After World War II and the Holocaust, in 1948 the State of Israel was officially declared. The Arab-Israel war broke out, forcibly displacing the majority of the local Arab population.    And, they’re still being displaced.

Since the creation of the State of Israel, human rights experts note that violations of international law and lack of accountability have been the norm, rather than the exception.

More than two-thirds of Gaza is now either under active displacement orders or designated as “no-go” zones, states the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs.  

The West Bank with Gaza makes up the State of Palestine.  It is now divided between Israeli settlements and Palestinian enclaves.  Although Hamas is not in charge in the West Bank, reportedly tens of thousands of Palestinians have been expelled from their homes there.  The international community considers the West Bank settlements illegal under international law.

Both the West Bank and Gaza have been under Israeli military occupation.  The Israeli army determines what Palestinians can and cannot do.  They have been deprived of freedom, of their human rights. 

The continued occupation has led to hopelessness and despair which has fostered violence. Palestinians want to establish their own independent state.  Israel wants to defend its borders and control the West Bank.

The atrocities continue. 

• March 2.  Israel closed the borders into Gaza.  No more food, medical supplies, fuel and water can enter.  They remain closed.

 • March 23.  Fifteen aid workers in a clearly marked ambulance were mowed down when Israeli troops opened fire on them.  They, and their ambulance, were buried in mass graves. Autopsies show that several were shot in the head.                           

• April 13.  An Israeli air strike destroyed the last fully functional hospital in Gaza City.  Hospitals are supposed to be protected by international law, yet Israel has targeted them, some multiple times.  Hamas is accused of using the hospitals as command-and-control centers and/or cover.  In the case of the Gaza City hospital, no evidence of such has been provided.

• April 13.  Six brothers and a friend, all soup kitchen volunteers, were killed when their car was hit.

• As I write, Israel is bombing tents where the displaced now live 
They were given a warning to evacuate, but where to?  There are no safe zones.  They live amongst filth, rubble, garbage. There is no sanitation.  People are sick, on the verge of starvation, especially children.

A UN organization states that Israel’s actions show “an utter disregard for human life.”

It’s heartbreaking to see the destruction, the rubble in Gaza where its citizens once lived, the schools where kids once learned now leveled, hungry children lining up for food, body bags carried through the streets, wounded lying on the floors of hospitals which have no more beds, the West Bank farmer pointing to land where his olive groves which had been in his family for ages once flourished — but are no more.

When will it stop?  Is there no humanity in the world? 

It appears Israel, at least the right wing government, has taken a page from the Nazi playbook. The Nazis termed the Jews “untermenschen,” subhuman, vermin, thus justifying the need to eliminate them. One can assume Netanyahau and his cronies feel much the same about Palestinians whom they do not consider as human beings — best to eliminate them. How else can this continue?

Photo by Omar Ramadan

And, much of the rest of the world turns a blind eye to the slaughter. Martin Griffiths, executive director of Mediation Group International, cites a lack of international condemnation 

“Whatever outrage there is, and there is appallingly little, has not led to action.” He calls this “a terrible stain on our conscience.”

Griffiths pointed out that it is not only Israel doing “these deplorable and illegal things but also states responsible for international humanitarian law and the Geneva conventions.”  They should speak out, he said, because they are legally obligated to do so.  Instead, they are silent.

The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing,” Edmund Burke.

(Information above is from numerous sources, including The New York Times, Le Monde, France 24, The Guardian and Aljazeera.  Sadly, since this writing, the numbers have no doubt climbed.)

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10 responses to “A “Killing Field”: Genocide in Gaza”

  1. Anne

    Thank you Leah for writing this terribly troubling piece about the plight of the Palestinians. It was good, but difficult, for me to read your summary of the murder of thousands of people, many of them children. Yes, we need to speak out. Yes, we need to do something!

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    1. It’s beyond belief, and the situation in Gaza only gets worse as Israel intensifies its attacks and blocks all aid. It’s blatant genocide, ethnic cleansing. How long will the world stand by and let this slaughter continue? The US is especially guilty.

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  2. jimmy

    I’ve enjoyed reading your posts, Leah. Your writing style is clear and direct, informative and engaging. I admire your intrepid reporting and the breadth of topics you focus on.

    Thanks for daring to write about Gaza, probably one of the most volatile and grisly subjects on earth—and in turn, for prompting this discussion.

    For what it’s worth, I think there’s way too much fear and prejudice as well as hatred and extreme violence by all opposing parties in the Middle East. To think of Gaza as a tragedy seems like an understatement. It’s a veritable mountain of tragedies.

    And too, with all of its cultural wars, ugly rhetoric and power grabs, I’m afraid that America itself may soon go down a similar path.

    A friend of mine, who lost ancestors in the Holocaust, supports all aspects of Israel’s response to the Hamas terrorist massacre and hostage abductions, including the IDF’s relentless bombing campaign on Gaza. She tells me we need to confront ‘evil with evil,’ and anything short of that is naive.

    I agree with her that kindness won’t defeat evil. I’m certainly not a pacifist. I believe military force is needed in such situations. But there are ‘proportionate’ responses to an enemy’s aggression, and an aggrieved nation like Israel has a duty under international law to take all reasonable precautions to protect civilian noncombatants, especially children.

    The Geneva Conventions of 1949, ratified by most all nations after the horrific excesses of World War II, set out the rules of war. I’m not convinced that Israel took adequate precautions in Gaza. Its bombing campaign has struck me as far too reckless and expedient. And I believe the United States (under both Biden and Trump) should’ve taken greater steps to reign in Israel’s retaliation.

    I’ll admit that it gets complicated fast, especially when terrorists take shelter amongst civilians or operate command-and-control centers under schools or hospitals. But that’s what leadership is all about. Once we provided Israel with weapons for its retaliation, we had a moral obligation to influence its targeting and the way its bombing campaign was conducted.

    Then again, it’s not easy.

    Israel retaliated, and Hamas kept holding onto most of its hostages. Israel bombed some more. Hamas kept holding on.

    I think you asked a couple of wonderful questions in your piece — something like: When will this stop? and, Isn’t there any humanity any more?

    Not easy questions to answer. With any luck, things will get better.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you, Jimmy. I appreciate your thoughtful and incisive remarks. You are so right. There is too much hatred, fear, prejudice, violence. Not just in Gaza, but in too many parts of the world. All, especially world leaders, need to follow the example and inspiration of Pope Francis.
      Best wishes for a successful trip. I’d love to hear about it upon your return.

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  3. hrector122

    Heartbreaking. I am so embarrassed by the USA and UN. And now we cannot openly criticize Israel or risk being called anti-semetic. Innocent people in the USA are being arrested and deported for even criticizing baby killer bibi. I blame Biden for supporting Israel with weapons. Now our horrible administration talks about building a resort on gaza land. The genocide continues. Horrible.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I agrée with you. I am Angy about the US. I think the UN has tried, but is powerless. The US abstains from all votes to condemn Israël. I can’t understand. Why was Biden such a wimp? He caved in, supporting Israël in spite of the clear évidence of genocide, continuing to supply US bombs to massacre the innocents. Horrific,

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  4. birdspeedily51bdc18950

    And, if in the US or Germany?, you support or demonstrate for the Palestinian cause, you can be deported or hassled or fired for abetting a terrorist cause, detrimental to American foreign interests. And, Or labeled anti-semantic.
    I just read THE MESSAGE by Ta-Nehisi Coates. In it he likens the Israeli treatment of Palestinians to apartheid and American Jim Crow. The book has changed me.

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    1. I agree. Equating opposition to the Gaza war and sympathy with Palestine to antisemitism is insane and infuriating. I live in France and ordered the Coates book via Amazon. After months , told not available. Censorship?

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  5. lynnecrytseryahoofr

    This is a very important piece, Leah. Not only is it factual, but it is also written with great heart and humanity. Gaza is indeed a killing field but there is comparatively little outrage, especially in the United States regarding this holocaust. The only explanation is racism against Arabs and most especially against Palestinians whose lives are held in contempt. Even images of deliberately murdered children haven’t made a difference. Imagine if the tables were turned!

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    1. Thank you Lynne. You are right. Racism plays a big role. It’s time for the world, especially US which supplies the bombs, to wake up and stop supporting and/or ignoring Israel’s blatant genocide and ethnic cleansing.

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Paris:  A cathedral, couture – and cows

Notre Dame. We had to see it. Who doesn’t remember TV images of flames ripping through the glorious landmark cathedral five years ago?  

That was then. Today. Wow! Considering the monumental damage from those flames and smoke, the interior is no less than miraculous.  It’s vibrant. It dazzles. It’s lofty, light and inspiring.

Friend Karen and I followed the line of visitors moving slowly through the nave.  We, and others, stopped to admire minute details which have been meticulously restored. We stopped  for photos.  And we stopped and stood and gazed, overpowered by the majesty of all.

We visited Paris in February. The weather was not pleasant (mainly gray and cold), nor was this the best time for special exhibitions at museums. One exhibit did receive lots of publicity: “Louvre Couture.” We went for it, but were somewhat underwhelmed.  Enormous, imposing rooms where enormous ancient tapestries hang provide a backdrop for fashions dating from 1961 to the present. 

It was impressive, as is the Louvre.  But, where were all the rooms with gorgeous furniture and fashion featured in publicity photos?  We backtracked, looking for doors, passages to other sections.  No luck.   We were no doubt lost in the Louvre and perhaps missed the best part, but we felt we had seen plenty of fashion.

There was more fashion of sorts at a Quai Branly Museum exhibit, “Golden Thread, the Art of Dressing from North Africa and the Far East.” Shimmering golden gowns by Chinese designer Guo Pei are over the top

I love this museum which offers a journey through the arts and civilizations of Asia, Africa, Oceania and the Americans. It’s fun and fascinating. 


“You don’t go to Paris to see cows,” a friend remarked.  We did, and my mistake. The International Salon d’Agriculture was on in the French capital. Years ago, friends went and raved about it. Besides, I love animals – maybe more than fashion. 

 It was a long, too long, Uber ride.  The “salon”was mammoth – pavilion after pavilion.  We zeroed in on animals – the most popular and crowded pavilion.  We did see some interesting species but probably not the best use of our limited time in Paris.  

We enjoyed a more worthwhile visit to the Centre Pompidou for the Suzanne Valadon (1865-1938) retrospective. Valadon was a notable female artist whose works are bold in color, blending realism and expressionism.  She focused on women, depicting them in everyday life.  

More fashion at the Dior Gallery.  And, more art at L’Atelier des Lumieres.  A 19th century iron foundry has been converted into a high-tech exhibition center where the works of famous artists are projected on the walls, floor and ceiling. Visitors sit on benches, on the floor, enveloped and mesmerized by the ever-changing art scene.  We were surrounded by masterpieces of Picasso and Henri Rousseau – a delightful and dynamic experience.  

This was my first visit back to my favorite city in six years. Back then I had normal mobility.  Sadly, due to a horrendous fall, I now have “limited mobility.” I limp and walk with a cane, but it could be worse. This trip was a test.  Can I travel as a cripple?

I can walk , do steps and cobblestones – slowly.  Karen, an avid and fast walker, patiently put up with me. Previously the Metro was the preferred way of transportation in Paris, but I was fearful. No one moves slowly in the metro.   Too risky.  I would be mowed down.   We traveled by Uber – also slow due to Paris traffic, but comfortable and interesting.

We traveled in Toyotas (many) as well a Mercedes, even a luxurious Lexus with soothing music and complimentary water. Fortunately, no Tesla.  The drivers came from around the globe: Tunisia, Morocco, Algeria, Togo, Guadeloupe, Guinea, Haiti, Brazil, Cameroon and Ethiopia.

 The journalist in me emerged.  I probably asked too many questions, but was curious to learn about their backgrounds. All seemed happy to oblige.  Selam from Ethiopia formerly had a travel agency in his country.  Ever since reading a friend’s account of a trip to Ethiopia, I have longed to visit.   Selam may help me plan a trip. 

I conquered Paris without a fall.  I passed the test. I can travel with limited mobility, but it’s comforting to be with a friend.  Thank you, Karen.

The legendary restaurant Bofinger is next door to the hotel where we stayed (see below). Noted for seafood and Alsatian specialities. The only mishap of the trip was the oyster I ate there on our last night. It did me in, wiped me out for a week, but fortunately not until I was home.

IF YOU GO . . .

Paris is popular year-round.  Even in dreary February we found lines everywhere.  For attractions and exhibitions, book tickets online in advance, a must. Even then, expect to wait in line.

It was drizzling the morning we visited Notre Dame.  We waited outdoors in line about 20 minutes, but the long line was constantly advancing. This may not be the case as the weather warms and the crowds grow.  There is no charge to visit the cathedral.  You can book an entry time slot on line. See web site, http://www.notredamedeparis.fr

Our hotel was about a two- minute walk from Place de Bastille.

We loved our hotel, the Bastille Speria, a small 3* hotel just minutes from the Place de la Bastille and the Bastille metro stop. Close to the Marais and Place des Vosges. Friendly, helpful staff. Clean, attractive rooms.  Ample buffet breakfast, (eggs, fruit, yogurt, cheese, meats and more) included in the price.  Free copy of the NYT in the mini lounge.

Hotel-bastille-speria.com or info@hotelsperia7.com

Karen(right) and I at Carette, Place des Vosges, a restaurant where I met a friend from Stars and Stripes days, Len Hill, and his partner Claudine. Good times — and delicious scrambled eggs, the restaurant speciality.

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At last I have a new recipe, broccoli salad, and need-to-know info on this amazing vegetable.


TODAY’S TASTE – Broccoli Salad

Broccoli is a winner in the healthy veg category.  It’s rich in vitamins C and K and other nutrients.  But — the best bonus is a phytochemical, sulforaphane, known as one of the most powerful anticarcinogens found in food.

Click on the picture for the recipe – and learn more about this amazing vegetable.
For more recipes, click here – and remember: comments are very welcome.


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13 responses to “Paris:  A cathedral, couture – and cows”

  1. Stay tuned for more more recipes.

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  2. Erika

    It’s so amazing that you did that adventure, I’m proud of you. Did you take this pictures with your phone? They are so beautiful. Thanks for sharing

    Erika

    Liked by 1 person

    1. It was so good to be back in Paris. Even in cold, gray winter, it was a joy. iphone fotos. Thanks for the compliment.

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  3. Karen

    Don’t forget, Leah…….As we discovered, because you are handicapped, we could use the priority lanes at all the exhibitions. Which meant, no long lines for you, and as I was your accompagnante, I also got to get in first, and even in some cases, free. Also, your press card helped. So, yes, I did travel a little more slowly than usual, but there were advantages to being with you. And, we had a good time, despite the weather.

    Lovely blog of an interesting and fun trip.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. We deserved the advantages. It was a plus to Jump the lines for sure. I am so glad we made the trip. Thanks for being my “accompagnante. »

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  4. so happy to hear that you are a travelling cripple!! Ha

    Sue

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Better to travel as a cripple than not travel.

      Like

  5. Ortrud Hundertmark

    Hallo Leah ich habe,wie immer, deinen Reisebericht mit großer Freude gelesen. Deine Berichte sind immer sehr aufschlussreich präzise und spannend zu lesen.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Vielen Dank Liebe Ortrud. Hat Mich gefreut von dir zu hoeren. Paris hat Spass gemacht. Gruesse an Kurt.

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  6. Meg Downie

    A great read Leah. I’m itching to get back to France.

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    1. Thank you, Meg. Come and see me.

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  7. mkratage

    It’s great to see you traveling again, Leah, even if at a slower pace. Notre Dame looks fantastic. Your photos are always beautiful and explanations interesting. Marian

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    1. I was very happy to conquer Paris at a slow pace. It was a good trip, and Notre Dame is a sensation. Thanks for the comment, Marian.

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Discovering the marvels of MUD

Five days a week, beginning in the wee hours, Askit is on the job, filling buckets with deep brown, slimy, gooey mud. Therapeutic mud.

The husky, jovial native of Albania then pulls a cart with six heavy buckets of the yucky substance to the treatment area at the Hotel Residence, a spa hotel in Abano Terme, Italy.  He has been doing this for 30 years, he tells me with a hearty grin, then dumps a pail of mud onto a therapy bed.

Vanni, his Italian colleague, takes over, spreading the mud into one or more puddles on a bed in a small therapy room.  The room also has a shower for hosing off the mud and a deep tub for après-mud soaking in warm thermal water. 

Vanni motions me into the room.  I shed the hotel robe.  Mud treatments are not for the prudish.  This is naked body treatment, however miniscule thong “undies “of a gossamer-like paper are available.  

Vanni checks the soaking tub.

Vanni is a joy, always smiling.  I stop trying to cover my sagging boobs with my arm and follow his instructions to  lie on the bed, back positioned on the big puddle. He lathers me with mud, covers me in plastic, puts a blanket on top and disappears. The mud is hot initially, but soon deliciously warm. I stay that way for 20 minutes.  Vanni returns midway to wipe my face with a cool, moist cloth.

He started working at the hotel in 1979, he says, and now calls himself “fango meister,” German for mud master.  Many Germans previously patronized this spa hotel.  Vanni has mastered the language in addition to the mud.

I am a water rat.  The mud is pleasant, but I adored the soak in the hot, bubbling thermal water.   According to the Abano web site (abano.it), the water makes a long, underground journey from the pre-Alps.  Rain enriches it with mineral salts.  It is transformed and “classified as salted-bromide iodic hypothermal water.” 

Euganean Hills, Abano Terme photo

The mineral rich water is the secret ingredient of the mud. Abano is at the feet of the Euganean Hills, a region of prehistoric volcanoes in northeastern Italy. Clay is extracted from lakes in the area, filtered and purified, then left to “ripen” for at least two months in special tanks with the hot thermal water.  Not just hot, but scalding water which emerges from the ground at 75-90 °C (167-194°F). For pool use, it travels through a piping system and is cooled to 30-35 °C (86-95°F). 

The final mud product is natural therapy with a healing, anti-inflammatory and analgesic action.  It is said to stimulate cartilage restoration, enhance the immune system, as well as restore vitality and a mineral balance of the body.

Pool at Hotel Residence

The tub soak is a delight, but even better are the thermal pools, large indoor-outdoor pools with warm thermal water and powerful water jets. They are not meant for swimming, just relaxing and enjoying the soothing water.  I could have spent hours at the pool, but learned from experience that was not a good idea.  The recommendation is for 30-40 minutes maximum per session.  Of course, I disobeyed the first time, and then was completely wiped out. 

Abano has been a wellness destination since ancient times.  According to legend, the first settlement in the territory was founded by Hercules who is said to have restored his strength and health here after his challenging feats.

Romans were fans of water treatments and appreciated the healing properties of hot springs and mud from the valley.  More than 2,000 years ago, they built villas and settlements whose ruins are still prevalent in the area.

Sun beams and steam at hotel pool

This was my third visit to Abano. The first was in the summer (not recommended). See my previous blog, “Taking the waters – and the mud” for more details.

This past Christmas as well as Christmas 2023, I joined friend Angi for a 10-day visit to Abano.  Angi is a dedicated fan of the mud.  For years she lived in Rome and spent two weeks every year in Ischia, a volcanic island off the coast of Naples known for thermal springs and mud.  She had serious back pain following an auto accident which resulted in five fractured vertebrae.  The treatments “took away the pain and inflammation,” she says.

Friend Vera has been to Abano six times for “wellness, cooling out, relaxing… I enjoy it.  I enjoy the treatments,” she says.

I can’t say Abano made any difference with my numerous body infirmities following my disastrous fall and seven surgeries.   But it was sublime, a definite morale booster, a rewarding experience. For me, it did “restore vitality.”   I just may return next Christmas.

In addition to mud and water, I treated myself to massages and facials.  I spent an afternoon exploring nearby Verona.  I joined the excursion to Villa Selvatico, one of many villas, castles and abbeys in the surroundings.  I attended a church concert. And, I found bargains at the town’s weekly market. 

Food was another highlight – very good, varied, healthy.  Angi and I shared a table in the welcoming dining room. Fatima, an “angel” from Brazil, was our waitress. She brought us real cappuccino in the morning so we could skip the watery machine variety. She gave us advice on menu selections. Like most of the hotel staff, she was cheerful, helpful and fun to chat with.

Fatima

The town Abano Terme has a population of 20,000, but claims 250,000 visitors annually.  There are some 37 spa hotels of all categories offering pools and mud treatments, as well as other hotels and different accommodation possibilities.

My package included nine nights single room, three meals per day excluding drinks, unlimited pool and sauna use, plus bus transportation: 1,400 euros (about $1,500 at current exchange rate).  A doctor visit is required before beginning the program, 70 euros ($72). The doctor determines, recommends which treatments are best for each visitor.  I paid 35 euros ($36) for each mud wrap and tub soak; 70 euros ($72) for a heavenly detox facial; 75 euros ($77.50) for a 50-minute-deep tissue massage.   The latter were so exquisite, I had to have more — an anti-stress facial and another deep tissue massage.

Throughout the year, GB hotels, a group of five Abano spa hotels, organizes bus transportation from several  cities in southern France where I to Abano.

More information on Abano: www.abano.it.  More info on the four-star Hotel Residence and other Abano hotels at www.gbhotelsabano.it

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Swedish holiday “orgy”

Following is a guest blog with photos by Swedish friend Lars who recently journeyed to his home country to celebrate his sister’s birthday. It was more than an over-the-top birthday party: the Julbord, a holiday overdose of food – and akvavit (a popular and strong Scandinavian spirit. See below for more on this beverage). The Julbord is a must at Christmas, but can be repeated during the festive season including on New Year’s Day. The eating can go on all day, Lars says. “It’s supposed to be drawn out. It’s an orgy. You need time to recover.” He recalls that housewives used to “slave for two weeks” to prepare the food, but many now celebrate in restaurants.

A small section of the Julbord

By Lars Sjöström

On the topic of Christmas food traditions, Sweden is in a league of its own when it comes to sheer opulence embodied in the institution of the Julbord, which is a king-sized jumbo version of the famous “smorgasbord” with extra bells and whistles and a bow on top.

The canonical way of eating your way through a Julbord is to start with a plate of cured salmon, several varieties of smoked salmon, and at least three — preferably 5-7 — different kinds of pickled herring , mackerel, smoked eel and various sauces eaten together with boiled potatoes and “special Christmas edition” crisp bread.

The first of several shots of akvavit is consumed in conjunction with communal singing of a snapsvisa — an often humorous ditty extolling the virtues of (heavy) drinking. There will be many more of these and they become naughtier as the evening progresses…

Next up is assembling a plateful of cold cuts, where the glazed ham is the centerpiece. There should be a minimum of ten, but usually many more different dishes ranging from sausages, patées and meats in jelly, to smoked reindeer and smoked lambs leg and whatever else is traditional in various parts of the country.

Another shot, another drinking song, and a swig of either Christmas ale or julmust, a nonalcoholic soft drink only available at Christmas time. 

The third round consists of hot dishes, and here is where the famous Swedish meatballs enter the scene. There should also be tiny hot dogs made from premium ingredients, spare ribs, different kinds of stews often based on game such as deer, moose or reindeer. At this point vegetables like red, green and brown cabbage, cauliflower and Brussel sprouts are introduced. 

Another shot, another song— you know the drill.

There is a cheese round, a dessert round and a Christmas sweets round, all with songs and shots.

If you are still able to function after all this, you can enjoy Julgröt — porridge made from rice boiled in milk and flavoured with cinnamon. There should be a single peeled almond hidden inside, and if you happen to find it, it will bring you luck in the new year.

Lars and his sister Anna.
Akvavit/Aquavit is a distilled spirit (at least 37.5 % in alcohol strength) produced in Scandinavia from grain or potatoes and flavoured with spices, especially caraway. Dill is also used in the Swedish version. The obligatory toast, Skål, precedes each shot.

Happy New Year! Let’s hope that the devastating wars ragging in too many parts of the world will come to an end. I especially grieve for Gaza that has and continues to be destroyed by US bombs, with some 45,000 lives lost. This has to stop. Let’s try to be optimistic and hope that somehow sanity and morality will prevail in the U.S.

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FOOD:  GLORIOUS CHRISTMAS FOOD

Forget the tree and presents.  Of course, they are important. For foodies like me, however, it’s food that makes the holidays especially tantalizing, delicious, rewarding.

An overload of Christmas desserts in Portugal.

Eggnog, Christmas cookies, fruit cake, turkey, standing rib roast and baked ham are among American holiday treats. What about other countries? What do their citizens savour during the holidays? I asked several non-American friends about their Christmas food traditions.

GERMANY : “It must always be fish on the 24th,” says my German friend Andrea. She prefers salmon and roasted potatoes.  Andrea, an excellent cook, seasons the fish with salt, pepper, rosemary, a bit of wine, and rubs it with oil, then roasts it. Delicious, and not a lot of work. Her father went for carp on Christmas Eve. 

On the 25th, it’s venison goulash with priselbeeren (similar to cranberries) and dumplings for Andrea, husband Thiemo and her mother, Tekla. In many German households, roast goose is the Christmas highlight. When I lived in Germany, I tried it. Good, but tricky. It can easily dry out. The array of German holiday sweets is almost decadent: Stollen, homemade cookies galore, gorgeous cakes. Lebkuchen, a type of gingerbread cookie, are ubiquitous.  

In FRANCE where I now live, the Christmas Eve Réveillon is the meal extraordinaire.  It could begin with champagne and oysters, although these are popular throughout the holiday season.  If not oysters, perhaps a mixture of shellfish or smoked salmon.

My Réveillon table – many years ago

Foie gras is also de rigeur, although controversial.  Geese or ducks are force -fed during the last weeks of their lives to yield extra-large livers. 

I love animals, but I also love foie gras.  Many years ago, for article research I spent a day working at a goose farm. The geese did not resist the force feeding.  Their owner insisted it was not cruel.  This was a beautiful farm.  The geese were free ranging until their last days.  However, not all geese and duck farms are like this. 

I even took a foie gras cooking course and learned to prepare the delicacy which I did for Christmas guests.  Those days are over.  Now I feel guilty eating foie gras, but I do indulge in a wee bit at Christmas.

Turkey, or another bird such as capon or guinea fowl, can take the spotlight at the Reveillon dinner.   A Buche de Noel (Christmas log), a fancy cake in the shape of a log, caps off the meal. 

In ITALY, Cinzia tells me, after midnight mass on the 24th, all return home to open presents and enjoy Panettone, the Italian holiday cake, with a glass of sweet wine.

As in many countries, the customs can vary with regions.  She hails from Piedmont, the north, where Christmas lunch on the 25th is the major event. As this is Italy, there’s a pasta course which, at Christmas, is usually homemade stuffed pasta, such as tortellini or cannelloni.  Her favorite is her mother’s lasagna.  “Now people eat it all the time,” she says, but formerly it was reserved for Christmas and special occasions. Roasted lamb, beef or the holiday special, zampone  (stuffed pig’s feet) follow the pasta. 

For Cinzia, the Christmas meal represents “the fact of feeling part of a family which was there for you year after year, the (illusory) idea that, no matter what would come, every year the family tradition of eating what she was cooking would perpetuate, it’s about a sense of belonging and ‘safety'” 

Arabella (back to camera unfortunatley) leads her pupils in Christmas carols

Like Cinzia, Italian Arabella says her favorite is Panettone.  But, at her house the major feast is on Christmas Eve featuring some type of meat. That’s fine for her husband and daughter. But, she’s a vegetarian and will also prepare ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta. She is also a big fan of an Italian Christmas chocolate, Cri Cri, with hazelnuts and praline.

ROMANIA: Romanian Florin remembers childhood Christmases in his country where carnati (smoked sausage) is a holiday must. Preparation in country villages begins on December 18 when neighbors gather outdoors to kill a pig, then cover it with hay and set it afire.  Gruseome! Florin even remembers killing the pig once. The cooked beast is divided into parts.  All work together to turn out the tasty sausage.

Killing the pig is illegal today, but Florin says it probably continues in some areas. Those who are not up to the carnati labor, not to mention killing a pig, can purchase the ready-made sausage. Other Romanian Christmas musts are sarmale (stuffed cabbage) and cozona, a light “puffy” holiday bread.

PORTUGAL:“We eat a lot at Christmas and Easter, a lot of different things,” Portuguese Catarina says. “We have a full table of food. It’s too much. We don’t eat it all.” For Christmas Eve dinner, potatoes, carrots, the famous Bacalhau (boiled, dried salted cod), and more fill the table. Her favorite, however, follows the next day, roasted octopus at lunch.  She hails from northern Portugal where roasted goat is also common on the 25th.

Roast goat takes center stage on many a holiday table in Portugal.

But it’s the desserts that shine – many, many different treats.  She admits they are very rich and sweet, and she is not fond of all.  “But I love to see and smell them.  That’s Christmas.”  

She’s right. It’s not just the taste, but the enticing aromas and beautiful presentations that enhance holiday food and make it special. And — friends and family. “Christmas is to be at the table with family,” Catarina adds. Enjoy.

Happy Holidays and Bon Appetit to all.

Scroll down for more holiday photos

My German holiday decorations.

I’m old and so is this treasured Christmas recipe. Long ago I clipped recipes from newspapers and magazines. This one is a winner. Read my scribbled notes. I always go for recipes with a bit of booze. Rum makes this cake.

Smoked eel (exquisite) was a treat at one of my long-ago holiday dinner parties.
British friends brought “crackers” and hats to this holiday dinner years ago.
My poinsettia

Coming soon, a guest blog by Swedish friend Lars on the Julbord, “the king-sized jumbo version of the famous smorgasbord.” It’s a food orgy, a mind-boggling, lavish assortment of tastes -and plenty of vodka. Don’t miss it.

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Check out my tried and true recipes — keep scrolling down on a phone, or, if on a /PC or tablet, up to the column on right then down to “Recipes.”  I will add new recipes soon.