Paris:  A cathedral, couture – and cows

Notre Dame. We had to see it. Who doesn’t remember TV images of flames ripping through the glorious landmark cathedral five years ago?  

That was then. Today. Wow! Considering the monumental damage from those flames and smoke, the interior is no less than miraculous.  It’s vibrant. It dazzles. It’s lofty, light and inspiring.

Friend Karen and I followed the line of visitors moving slowly through the nave.  We, and others, stopped to admire minute details which have been meticulously restored. We stopped  for photos.  And we stopped and stood and gazed, overpowered by the majesty of all.

We visited Paris in February. The weather was not pleasant (mainly gray and cold), nor was this the best time for special exhibitions at museums. One exhibit did receive lots of publicity: “Louvre Couture.” We went for it, but were somewhat underwhelmed.  Enormous, imposing rooms where enormous ancient tapestries hang provide a backdrop for fashions dating from 1961 to the present. 

It was impressive, as is the Louvre.  But, where were all the rooms with gorgeous furniture and fashion featured in publicity photos?  We backtracked, looking for doors, passages to other sections.  No luck.   We were no doubt lost in the Louvre and perhaps missed the best part, but we felt we had seen plenty of fashion.

There was more fashion of sorts at a Quai Branly Museum exhibit, “Golden Thread, the Art of Dressing from North Africa and the Far East.” Shimmering golden gowns by Chinese designer Guo Pei are over the top

I love this museum which offers a journey through the arts and civilizations of Asia, Africa, Oceania and the Americans. It’s fun and fascinating. 


“You don’t go to Paris to see cows,” a friend remarked.  We did, and my mistake. The International Salon d’Agriculture was on in the French capital. Years ago, friends went and raved about it. Besides, I love animals – maybe more than fashion. 

 It was a long, too long, Uber ride.  The “salon”was mammoth – pavilion after pavilion.  We zeroed in on animals – the most popular and crowded pavilion.  We did see some interesting species but probably not the best use of our limited time in Paris.  

We enjoyed a more worthwhile visit to the Centre Pompidou for the Suzanne Valadon (1865-1938) retrospective. Valadon was a notable female artist whose works are bold in color, blending realism and expressionism.  She focused on women, depicting them in everyday life.  

More fashion at the Dior Gallery.  And, more art at L’Atelier des Lumieres.  A 19th century iron foundry has been converted into a high-tech exhibition center where the works of famous artists are projected on the walls, floor and ceiling. Visitors sit on benches, on the floor, enveloped and mesmerized by the ever-changing art scene.  We were surrounded by masterpieces of Picasso and Henri Rousseau – a delightful and dynamic experience.  

This was my first visit back to my favorite city in six years. Back then I had normal mobility.  Sadly, due to a horrendous fall, I now have “limited mobility.” I limp and walk with a cane, but it could be worse. This trip was a test.  Can I travel as a cripple?

I can walk , do steps and cobblestones – slowly.  Karen, an avid and fast walker, patiently put up with me. Previously the Metro was the preferred way of transportation in Paris, but I was fearful. No one moves slowly in the metro.   Too risky.  I would be mowed down.   We traveled by Uber – also slow due to Paris traffic, but comfortable and interesting.

We traveled in Toyotas (many) as well a Mercedes, even a luxurious Lexus with soothing music and complimentary water. Fortunately, no Tesla.  The drivers came from around the globe: Tunisia, Morocco, Algeria, Togo, Guadeloupe, Guinea, Haiti, Brazil, Cameroon and Ethiopia.

 The journalist in me emerged.  I probably asked too many questions, but was curious to learn about their backgrounds. All seemed happy to oblige.  Selam from Ethiopia formerly had a travel agency in his country.  Ever since reading a friend’s account of a trip to Ethiopia, I have longed to visit.   Selam may help me plan a trip. 

I conquered Paris without a fall.  I passed the test. I can travel with limited mobility, but it’s comforting to be with a friend.  Thank you, Karen.

The legendary restaurant Bofinger is next door to the hotel where we stayed (see below). Noted for seafood and Alsatian specialities. The only mishap of the trip was the oyster I ate there on our last night. It did me in, wiped me out for a week, but fortunately not until I was home.

IF YOU GO . . .

Paris is popular year-round.  Even in dreary February we found lines everywhere.  For attractions and exhibitions, book tickets online in advance, a must. Even then, expect to wait in line.

It was drizzling the morning we visited Notre Dame.  We waited outdoors in line about 20 minutes, but the long line was constantly advancing. This may not be the case as the weather warms and the crowds grow.  There is no charge to visit the cathedral.  You can book an entry time slot on line. See web site, http://www.notredamedeparis.fr

Our hotel was about a two- minute walk from Place de Bastille.

We loved our hotel, the Bastille Speria, a small 3* hotel just minutes from the Place de la Bastille and the Bastille metro stop. Close to the Marais and Place des Vosges. Friendly, helpful staff. Clean, attractive rooms.  Ample buffet breakfast, (eggs, fruit, yogurt, cheese, meats and more) included in the price.  Free copy of the NYT in the mini lounge.

Hotel-bastille-speria.com or info@hotelsperia7.com

Karen(right) and I at Carette, Place des Vosges, a restaurant where I met a friend from Stars and Stripes days, Len Hill, and his partner Claudine. Good times — and delicious scrambled eggs, the restaurant speciality.

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At last I have a new recipe, broccoli salad, and need-to-know info on this amazing vegetable.


TODAY’S TASTE – Broccoli Salad

Broccoli is a winner in the healthy veg category.  It’s rich in vitamins C and K and other nutrients.  But — the best bonus is a phytochemical, sulforaphane, known as one of the most powerful anticarcinogens found in food.

Click on the picture for the recipe – and learn more about this amazing vegetable.
For more recipes, click here – and remember: comments are very welcome.


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13 responses to “Paris:  A cathedral, couture – and cows”

  1. Stay tuned for more more recipes.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Erika

    It’s so amazing that you did that adventure, I’m proud of you. Did you take this pictures with your phone? They are so beautiful. Thanks for sharing

    Erika

    Liked by 1 person

    1. It was so good to be back in Paris. Even in cold, gray winter, it was a joy. iphone fotos. Thanks for the compliment.

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Karen

    Don’t forget, Leah…….As we discovered, because you are handicapped, we could use the priority lanes at all the exhibitions. Which meant, no long lines for you, and as I was your accompagnante, I also got to get in first, and even in some cases, free. Also, your press card helped. So, yes, I did travel a little more slowly than usual, but there were advantages to being with you. And, we had a good time, despite the weather.

    Lovely blog of an interesting and fun trip.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. We deserved the advantages. It was a plus to Jump the lines for sure. I am so glad we made the trip. Thanks for being my “accompagnante. »

      Liked by 1 person


  4. so happy to hear that you are a travelling cripple!! Ha

    Sue

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Better to travel as a cripple than not travel.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Ortrud Hundertmark

    Hallo Leah ich habe,wie immer, deinen Reisebericht mit großer Freude gelesen. Deine Berichte sind immer sehr aufschlussreich präzise und spannend zu lesen.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Vielen Dank Liebe Ortrud. Hat Mich gefreut von dir zu hoeren. Paris hat Spass gemacht. Gruesse an Kurt.

      Liked by 1 person

  6. Meg Downie

    A great read Leah. I’m itching to get back to France.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you, Meg. Come and see me.

      Liked by 1 person

  7. mkratage

    It’s great to see you traveling again, Leah, even if at a slower pace. Notre Dame looks fantastic. Your photos are always beautiful and explanations interesting. Marian

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I was very happy to conquer Paris at a slow pace. It was a good trip, and Notre Dame is a sensation. Thanks for the comment, Marian.

      Liked by 1 person

13 thoughts on “Paris:  A cathedral, couture – and cows”

  1. It’s so amazing that you did that adventure, I’m proud of you. Did you take this pictures with your phone? They are so beautiful. Thanks for sharing

    Erika

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Don’t forget, Leah…….As we discovered, because you are handicapped, we could use the priority lanes at all the exhibitions. Which meant, no long lines for you, and as I was your accompagnante, I also got to get in first, and even in some cases, free. Also, your press card helped. So, yes, I did travel a little more slowly than usual, but there were advantages to being with you. And, we had a good time, despite the weather.

    Lovely blog of an interesting and fun trip.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Hallo Leah ich habe,wie immer, deinen Reisebericht mit großer Freude gelesen. Deine Berichte sind immer sehr aufschlussreich präzise und spannend zu lesen.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. It’s great to see you traveling again, Leah, even if at a slower pace. Notre Dame looks fantastic. Your photos are always beautiful and explanations interesting. Marian

    Like

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