Road trip to Turin and Milan

Off to the big cities in northern Italy by car, my fire engine red Suzuki Swift.  Brother Steve and sister-in-law Yoshie from Boulder came to visit me on the Mediteranean coast in France.  We wanted to explore some new turf: Turin, Lake Como and Milan. . Steve was supposed to share the driving, but, before arriving in France, he was pickpocketed in Florence.  Driver’s license gone, as well as credit cards and cash.  You can’t be too careful in Italy.

So, it was me behind the wheel.  The driving was challenging. Before the Italian adventure we set off on the mountain road (too many hairpin turns) to the spectacular site where husband Bob’s ashes are dispersed around a pilgrimage chapel.   Then, the dreaded Italian autoroute stretch from the French-Italian border, first towards Genoa:  114 tunnels and hundreds of monstrous trucks .  It would be a nail biter if you didn’t need both hands on the steering wheel.

Pilgrimage chapel, Moulinet, Alpes Maritimes, France.

Finding our hotels in central Turin and Milan was borderline nightmare.   These are big cities with lots of traffic and chaotic intersections – at times even too much for GPS.  I screwed up more than once.  Stress!  And, our sorry adventure to Lake Como.  We did see water, but the surrounding spectacular mountains were hidden in clouds.  The road to our lakeside hotel was narrow and curvy – and treacherous when we had to depart in a downpour, driving through many ponds on the flooded road.  

That would be more than enough. But the challenges were not over yet.  Steve and Yoshie returned to Boulder by plane.  I set out on the trek home in the Suzuki.  After 45 minutes of nerve-wracking driving, I made it out of Milan to the autoroute. Not long thereafter, the clutch died. My guardian angel was with me.  I got the car off to the side of the autoroute without being crushed by speeding cars and giant trucks.  The car was towed to a garage (where it still is).  I came home by train.

Driving aside, Turin and Milan are worth a visit.

Following are photo highlights or our journey

A major attraction in Turin is the Mole Antonelliana (left) and the National Cinema Museum which it houses (right).

My favorite, however, is the Egyptian Museum. It’s not Cairo, nonetheless fabulous.

Turin’s Mercato di Porta Palazzo is Europe’s largest open-air food market.

The decadent Bicerin: espresso, hot chocolate and whipped cream, is a Turin tradition. Aperol Spritz: the drink of choice these days, is everywhere.

Milan’s Duomo (cathedral) is dazzling. You can take an elevator to tour the roof, but only half way. Then steps, too many and yet another challenge for a handicapped old lady. But, she did it. Roof photo, right, by Stephen K.

Milan’s Galleria is also dazzling.

It’s not just Venice that has canals. Milan’s Navigli district with two canals is a hub of artisan shops, restaurants and bars.

We enjoyed this overwhelming collection of historic photos at a shop in Navigli. Steve bought copies of several.

Best meals of the trip: Florentine steak in the Quadrilatero area (lots of restos and bars) in Turin, and osso bucco with risotto Milanese in Milan. We also feasted on delectable pizza and pasta throughout our Italian journey.

Entrance courtyard of the University of Arts in Brera, an area of Milan where we came across an outdoor vintage clothing market: Gucci, Armani, Dior and more. Fun, but we resisted purchases.

Yoshie and I attended a concert in Milan’s renowned La Scala. A poser in the Galleria.

We met my friends from Germany, Ian and Trina, who generously treated us to lunch at a charming agriturismo. Danke. Grazie! They now live in Varese, a stop on our way to Lake Como.

No spectacular views from our hotel on the shores of Lake Como. The night before the clouds and fog rolled in, the moon and lights from passenger ships made for a pretty picture.

Steve’s video

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9 responses to “ Road trip to Turin and Milan”

  1. Oh wow! That was quite the series of unfortunate events. Do you have your car back yet?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. But, all turned out well. Yes, the car is safely back in my garage. However, in the future, if I decide to go to Turin or Milan, I will take the train. Both do merit a return.

      Like

  2. Steve Koester

    I’ve been debating what to do with the rest of my life, but thanks to Tobi and Erika’s comments I’ve decided to become a social influencer.

    My favorite part of the trip with Leah was Torino, a city that feels somehow organic (I can’t think of another word), It’s scale is for people, it’s walkable, it has street cars, it has multiple open spaces, and in the inner part of the city it doesn’t seem to have any buildings higher than maybe six stories except for Mole Antonelliana, and one completely out of place condominium or apartment building. We had a surprisingly good dinner the first night at a little hole in the wall Peruvian restaurant and an absolutely horrible dinner at a “Japanese” restaurant run by a family from Mongolia. I thought my sister was going to die after eating the wasabi but she enjoyed the mochi ice cream.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. tsaidel

    Great photos, videos and stories. I also share the pain of driving in Italy. I think the Italian police are still after me! “Forgive me office…I donna speaka Italiano!”

    Great video Steve!

    Like

    1. Thank you, Tobi. I like Steve’s video too.

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  4. happily64dfa75244

    Hi Leah What a wonderful and horrible story. So glad Yoshie and Steve visited you (it was a pleasure to met them in Boulder) Thanks for sharing the story, wonderful pictures and the lovely video from Steve. Hope you are fine after all this stress situations 🫣 you’re so adventurous. Take care, big hugs for you and Simba

    ********************************* Erika Niederer mit homesitting um die Welt

    unterwegs von Alaska nach Feuerland http://silverstar-on-tour.jimdo.com http://silverstar-on-tour.com

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    1. Always good to hear from you,Erika. You are adventurous with your Trusted Housesits near and far. Enjoy California,

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  5. Frances

    Leah, what an adventure! I’m so sorry Steve lost his wallet, credit cards and driver’s license, leaving you with all the driving. I have driven the roads in that part of Italy, so I feel your pain! What a trooper you are! And good for you making it to the roof of Il Duomo! Again, no easy feat! xo

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    1. As the saying goes, Sxxx happens. We all survived and had an enjoyable, interesting trip.

      Liked by 1 person

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Bellissimo Lago di Como

“I thought I’d died and gone to heaven.” That is exactly the way I felt during a September visit to Lago di Como (Lake Como) in northern Italy. It is sublime. Glittering waters at the feet of Alpine mountain ranges. Photo-opp villages with cobbled alleys and flowered promenades. Baroque villas and impeccably manicured gardens.

Like me, lots of famous people have been seduced by the lake’s beauty and charm. Artists, writers, opera singers and aristocrats have homes on the lake shores. Not to mention Hollywood stars: George Clooney, Madonna, Richard Branson, Sylvester Stallone…

Varenna

My friend Karen, who knows the lake well, suggested we stop at Lake Como en route to her apartment in Croatia. I had fond memories of previous lake visits and was all in. She chose Varenna, considered one of the prettiest lakeside towns, as our destination for two nights. We enjoyed soaking up the vistas and the captivating ambiance of the lake and town.

The most heavenly time was high above the lakeside town of Tremezzo at the restaurant Al Veluu. Karen has friends who know the restaurant owner. She made a reservation mentioning her friends. We never did meet the owner. The waiter who greeted us was neither impressed nor happy to see us. It was close to 2 p.m.. The restaurant terrace was empty. He, no doubt, wanted to call it a day.

We had the spacious terrace and garden all to ourselves. The divine surroundings and spectacular views made up for the disappointing food. It was calm, peaceful, relaxing. We did not want to leave, but the warm sun was no longer so warm, and we needed to start the trek (taxi then 2 ferry rides) back to Varenna.

Karen chills out at Al Veluu.

Boats are the primary means of transportation for visiting Lake Como. Ferries of all sizes shuttle from town to town. The previous day we took a ferry to Bellagio, the “pearl” of the lake. Years ago husband Bob and I visited this treasure of a town. We visited the park and gardens of the grandiose Villa Serbelloni, hiked in the hills, took boat rides. It was all delightful.

Bellagio

Years later we returned with my mother who was overwhelmed. In addition to the gorgeous views and surroundings, she loved the shops. Bellagio, like most of the towns, has a plethora of boutiques and souvenir shops. On one visit, I purchased a large olive wood basket which I still treasure.

Varenna at night

In Varenna, we stayed at an Airbnb which promised a “bella vista” of the lake. What a joke. From a small bedroom window in a corner, if you twisted your neck you could spot the lake. Never mind. We had plenty of bella vistas as we climbed up and down the steep stairways in Varenna that lead to the lake, and strolled the path, Passegiata degli Innamorati (walk of lovers), along the shore.

Lake Como was the perfect start to my much-needed R&R break.

Thanks again to Karen, adventure in Croatia followed. Read all about it in an upcoming post. Don’t miss out.

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Bellagio

For more on Bellagio, read my report on a previous visit- click here.

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Bellissimo Bellagio

Instead of moving to France from Germany eight years ago, I tried to convince my husband to consider Italy as our future home.  It seems such a happy, fun, cheerful place.  I love the language, the people, the food, the countryside.  But, Bob finds it all a bit too chaotic, so France won and life here is fine (see previous blog post, All about Life in France).  But, I still adore Italy and am always thrilled with visits.

Watching the boats go by.
Watching the boats go by.

On the way home from our recent trip to Germany we spent three joyful days in Bellagio on the shores of Lake Como.  Friend Trina, whom we visited later in nearby Comerio, suggested the perfect hotel, Silvio, www.bellagiosilvio.com, just outside of town where we had a room with a balcony overlooking the lake and the distant Alps.  We’d been to Bellagio twice before, once with my mother who was also a fan of bella Italia and loved Bellagio.

View from our balcony at the Hotel Silvio.
View from our balcony at the Hotel Silvio.

The ancient village is perched on the shores of this idyllic lake ringed by mountains.  Steep steps climb skinny alleys lined with intriguing shops.  Sightseeing ships and ferries blow their horns as they pull in and out of the harbor.  It’s the perfect place to hang out and enjoy il dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing)

Our journey began with a car ferry ride at sunset from Colico on the northern end of the lake to Bellagio which sits on the promontory jutting into the water at the junction between the Como and Lecco legs of the lake.  Unfortunately the lens on my Canon Rebel camera froze on our last stop in Germany, so my photos were limited to my Blackberry.  I was amazed.  Not too bad.  And, there were

Lake Como at sunset.
Lake Como at sunset.

scenic, spectacular photo opps all around —  splashes of coral and orange across a dark sky streaked with wisps of clouds, rays of light dancing on the rippled water, postcard villages hugging the shore — all framed by deep blue silhouettes of mountains.

We did more than lounge on that lovely hotel balcony and ponder the Bellagio scenery.  Walk.  Down to the shore and through the perfectly manicured gardens of the Villa Melzi along the lake.  The English garden is enhanced with

October at the Villa Melzi Gardens.
October at the Villa Melzi Gardens.

sculptures, small ponds, a stream, exotic plants and ancient trees.  The complex, including the neoclassical villa, was built between 1808 and 1816 for Francesco Melzi d’Eril, Duke of Lodi, and vice president of the Italian Republic under Napoleon. www.giardidivillamelzi.it

The  garden walk led us to the village where we wandered in and out of the shops and found the perfect souvenir – an olive wood basket.  It was pricey, almost beyond our budget.  I tried to bargain, but the proprietor and craftsman, who had his workshop on the premises, would not budge.  He explained that it was a very time consuming process to create this piece.  We splurged – and are happy we did.  It’s a sensation on our table.Basket

Bellagio is known for another villa on a hill above the town, the Villa Serbelloni, owned by the Rockefeller Foundation.  It is used mainly for conferences.  On a previous visit we toured its gardens which are open for guided tours from April to October.  In town the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is the address of class where Churchill and John F. Kennedy stayed.

Along the shore in Bellagio.
Along the shore in Bellagio.

Another day we walked up a hill and along a road to Pescallo which I had remembered as being a quaint fishing village.  My memory failed.  It was not much.  No fishing boats.  We did find a lakeside restaurant where we had an expensive but disappointing lunch.  The next day we set out by car for a hair raising ride along the all- too-narrow- winding coastal road (well suited to the Honda S2000) to Lezzeno and a fabulous lunch at the restaurant of the Hotel Villa Aurora adjacent to the lake.  www.hotelauroralezzeno.com   There, as well as at the restaurant in the Hotel Silvio, we enjoyed fresh fish from Lake Como.  Twenty-eight different species are said to thrive in its waters.  Lavarello is a favorite.

On the way back home to France, we stopped first to visit the major town on the lake, Como, and its majestic cathedral, then to Comerio to visit Trina in her gorgeous apartment overlooking Lake Varese.  I met Trina years ago in an Italian class in Germany (she was the star of the class).  Her husband Ian, who used to work in Italy, now works in London. Trina, who teaches English, and her faithful companion, Lucky, a precious 16-year-old Bichon Frisé, are holding down the fort in Italy.bellagio17

We arrived on the evening of Bob’s birthday.  Trina prepared a delicious mussels pasta dish for our dinner – and there was a tart with a candle for the birthday boy.

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