Tales and Travel

Madagascar’s New Leader: Hope Amid Challenges

Will the new president of this island nation, the fifth poorest country in the world, tackle the immense problems engulfing the country? Chronic water and electricity shortages, corruption, poverty, crime, lack of educational and job opportunities…

Young protesters, Gen Z Madagascar, recently took to the streets by the thousands, demanding action. After weeks of mayhem, the military stepped in, backed the protesters, and toppled the government. Former president Andry Rajoelina had been impeached and fled the country. The constitutional court declared Col Michael Randrianirina as the new ruler.

I visited Madagascar last summer. The poverty is overwhelming. The chaos and traffic congestion in Antananarivo, the capital city, are mind boggling. Petty crime (pickpocketing) is pervasive. I was cautioned not to walk alone in the city. I asked a guide to take me to the main city market. He refused. It would be too risky.

John Delmas, my guide, pointed out a glaring symbol of corruption, a cable car crossing the city. The goal is to whisk people across town and avoid the stifling traffic. Citizens, who suffer water and electricity shortages, felt the money would be better spent to improve basic needs. Nonetheless a French company installed the cable car to the cost of some 150 million euros. It now stands still. Protestors destroyed the boarding stations.

I learned a lot about fish from these friendly locals in a coastal village where sardines are drying.

I spent little time in frantic Antananarivo. Most of my visit was filled with enriching and fun experiences in the area around Nosy Be, a popular tourist destination: scuba diving, swimming and snorkeling with giant turtles, visiting a lovely island, a fishing village, a sacred tree, a food market, a handicrafts market, a lemur park. I had interesting and educational conversations with guides and jovial locals. More about all in future posts.

I enjoyed Madagascar. There is tremendous potential for growth, development, tourism. Will that blossom with the new government, or yet again be set back by those in power who think only of their pocketbooks?

Madagascar has had a history of coups and crises since gaining independence from France in 1960. Ravi Matadeen, a British citizen who has lived and worked in Madagascar for 13 years, says he is worried about the future. “It looks very bleak.” He mentioned people leaving the country to find work abroad. “People with degrees are going to Mauritius to work in factories,” he noted. “There is a mass exodus of talent.”

Matadeeen is in the travel business which has been decimated with the recent events. “All bookings have been canceled. This has had a huge effect on Madagascar. Things are really bad.”

His friend, my guide John, a Malagasy who has his own tour company in Antananarivo, has also lost clients. Yet he is a bit more hopeful about the future.

“Now we have a transitional government, and there’s a bit of hope that things might get better,” John said. “But people are tired of corrupt politicians who only look out for themselves. We really need honest leaders who can bring real change. I truly hope things will start improving from now on.”

Guide Emanuel let, and John on the right

Matadeen’s wife, Kasia, who is Polish and works with an NGO which provides financial support to poor families for children’s education, also sees a glimmer of hope. “Maybe it will be different this time since it came from people on the streets. The problem is corruption. Those in power don’t care about the people.”

Gen Z protester Loic Coltran talked about corruption, yet he is very hopeful. “The young have woken up. We’ve had enough,” he said. “Not to have the right to water, electricity and energy in 2025… it’s not possible. We have been oppressed.”

He says Gen Z leaders have spoken to the new president and his team. “We can solve these problems. We believe. We need change.”

Coltran, who works for an indigenous agricultural enterprise, pointed out the country’s agricultural potential. “We have lots of rivers, plains, land for cultivation. But now there are no tractors, no irrigation, roads are not built. He mentioned Madagascar’s natural resources: gold, oil, gas, minerals… “Now only 1% is for the people, 99% is for foreign companies,” he said. “Here nothing works. It’s all corrupt.”

I was reminded of comments I heard during my brief visit to South Africa prior to visiting Madagascar. Corruption and crime are rampant there too. I was shocked with a remark from a black South African. “All of Africa’s leaders are corrupt,” he said. His hope for change lies with the young.
Let’s hope Madagascar’s Gen Z can spur positive change in this beautiful, fascinating country.

Photos of Antananarivo by John Delmas. Thank you John. And thank you for your outstanding guide services. You taught me so much about Madagascar. https://www.mada-discovery-travels.com

Ravi Matadeen, Self Drive Madagascar, http://www.selfdrivemadagascar.com

NGO helping finance education of children: http://www.childrenofmadagscar.com

I booked my African adventure, South Africa (Kruger) and Madagascar, with Worldwide Quest, http://www.worldwidequest.com

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. Big cats of South Africa coming soon, plus more on Madagascar: mysteries and marvels .

No new recipe today, but for lots of tried and true and delicious recipes, click here.

More photos below, plus comments block. Please send your thoughts.

The children are irrestible.When vehicles are stopped in traffic, they often come to the window, pleading for a handout. How can you resist?

All smiles with this group at a traffic stop.

Madagascar is home to 112 species of lemur, all endangered.

Power shopping, bargains galore, at handicrafts markets.

7 responses to “Madagascar’s New Leader: Hope Amid Challenges”

tsaidel

November 11, 2025

Hi Leah,

I tried to leave a comment but not sure it worked. Please let me know. Do you need to be signed in to leave a comment?

Thanks….Love your posts …. Tobi (Steve and Yoshie’s friend)

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1. leahlarkin
  
  November 11, 2025
  
  Thanks Tobi. Got your comment,
  
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tsaidel

November 11, 2025

Leah – your writing style and beautiful expressive photography make reading about the world’s troubles less painful. I have spent time in Madagascar trying to get work done from inside the tangle. I know it’s corrupt. The young people’s revolution and relative containment of violence is a good think. Keep the posts coming!

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1. leahlarkin
  
  November 11, 2025
  
  I am encouraged and hopeful by Gen Z actions, not just in Mada. Time to boot out corrupt politicians. Madagascar has so much potential. Its citizens deserve better.
  
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lynnecrytseryahoofr

October 22, 2025

Thank you for putting all of the recent events into perspective as well as interviewing so many locals. Your post is really insightful and timely. And the photos are luscious!

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John W James

October 21, 2025

I’m an American in Mada for about 12 years. This blog is spot on, thanks.
Most African countries were left with dysfunctional governments after colonizers were forced out of power. However, the colonizing forces retained control of many resources and land. They have been bleeding Africa dry for many decades while corrupting the governments. It is time for Africans to change their governments to work for the people, not only for the powerful.
I’m pleased to see how peaceful and legal the change has been in Mada. Hoping the focus on an honest transparent government can be maintained.

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Steve koester

October 20, 2025

“Madagascar’s natural resources: gold, oil, gas, minerals…now only 1% is for the people, 99% is for the foreign companies .” Encouraging corruption ensures the foreign corporations that their ability to extract the country’s wealth is secure – a post colonial legacy throughout the global south. Our current president is showing how this model works in the US as well

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Insights on South Africa: View from locals

Travel is more than the places you visit, the sights you see and the experiences you enjoy. It’s also the people you meet: guides, shop keepers, drivers, hotel personnel, other travelers.

I relish talking to all. During my recent travels to South Africa and Madagascar, I asked folks about local customs, politics, food, travel and more.

I found the South African marriage traditions intriguing. Driver Stan filled me in. No matter where they live in the country, South Africans go back to their home village for matrimony. But, before the big day a man must pay lobola to his fiancé’s family — at least five cows (about $500 each or more depending on the type and size of cow). Stan has a fiancé, but so far only three cows. He’s lucky. Educated brides go for much more, as many as 10 cows.

Cheryl, another driver, explained South African languages. The country has 11 official languages, mostly tribal languages, as well as English and Afrikaans, a Germanic language derived from Dutch. The Dutch were the original settlers in South Africa. Zulu is the most widely spoken tribal language. Many South Africans, like Cheryl who speaks Xhosa, her tribal language and English, are multi lingual.

Politics is a topic I like to explore. What I learned about South Africa was surprising. I talked to locals about life since the official end of apartheid in 1994. Many were too young to remember the dark times, but knew all too well about the years of cruel segregation.

Safari driver and guide disembarked to follow tracks.

All those I spoke with lamented the crime, corruption and unemployment plaguing the country now. Of course, it’s wonderful to be free, they said, but they claim that during apartheid these problems were not so drastic.

“There’s nothing but corruption now,” said Jacky, an employee at a safari lodge. “The white government took better care of the people…. They (today’s government) promised us a new road four years ago. Nothing has happened. Now when it rains the road floods and the kids can’t go to school… the government promises everything but does nothing.”

My contacts also said crime in the country has skyrocketed, especially in large cities. There are places in Johannesburg where even South Africans do not venture. “Yes, there’s crime,” said Jacky. “But if people are unemployed and need to feed their children, what are they to do?”

Apero break during afternoon game drive.

Andy, another lodge worker, does remember apartheid – separate toilets, long waits in line, always letting whites go ahead… “If I wanted to visit my father in Johannesburg, I had to apply for permission…

“It’s difficult for me to say this as a South African,” he continued, “but the black rulers are corrupt. The older generation votes for them. I hope in 10 years it will change. We (younger generation) need to take control.”

Food is another topic high on my list. My meals at the safari lodges were all star quality and taste. South African wildlife, I learned, is not just for tourists to admire. It’s also a good source of protein. Popular game meat include impala, kudo, springbok, ostrich, etc. I was not overwhelmed with ostrich, but impala was delicious.

One evening I had dinner with John, a food manager for several game lodges. His oxtail stew was exquisite. I requested the recipe, although I am not sure I can find oxtail. He assured me I could substitute beef, preferably chuck.

John grew up in self-sustaining family. “My grandmother made the bread…We ate all animal parts.” His love of food and cooking took him to London where he worked as a chef in several restaurants. He found it “stressful” and is happy to be back in South Africa, planning menus and ordering food for five different lodges.

John, center, and kitchen staff at Motswari lodge.

Fellow travelers are also fun and interesting. I was astonished at how well traveled so many of those I met were. Working remotely gives folks the time and freedom to explore the world, and it appears many are doing just that.

At a hotel in Madagascar, I met a group of medical personnel and health workers en route to volunteer on the hospital ship Mercy docked on the country’s coast. It was fascinating to learn about their admirable work. One volunteer from New Zealand, who has a handicapped daughter, gave me, a handicapped traveler, excellent advice. “You need to push yourself, test your boundaries. Use it or lose it.”

Favorite places visited was the topic of an after- dinner discussion at a safari lodge. This group had traveled far and wide. Thailand, Japan, South Korea, Brazil and Iceland were among favorite destinations.

Fellow safari travellers with guide and tracker on the left.

I asked about the most memorable travel experience. My #1 unforgettable adventure was trekking to see the gorillas in Rwanda. Canadian Christine, who had been to Rwanda and seen the gorillas, also put that on the top of her list, as did South African Matthew, although his gorilla trek was in Uganda.

Australian John, whom I met at another lodge, was passionate about Africa and photography. His high-tech gear was impressive. It seemed he had been to most every African country, including Madagascar, my next destination. He gave me some helpful advice.

Travel teaches us about different lands, cultures, religions… It enhances understanding and tolerance. It is rewarding. Talk to locals, listen and learn. It will enrich your journey.

I booked my African adventure, South Africa (Kruger) and Madagascar, with Worldwide Quest, http://www.worldwidequest.com

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. Big cats coming soon, plus the mysteries and marvels of Madagascar.

TODAY’S TASTE: Rum Raisin Carrot Cake

I recently invited friends for belated b’day cake. The Rum Raisin Carrot Cake is the one with the candle. It was yummy. Click on above title for recipe and for more recipes, click here.

4 responses to “Insights on South Africa: View from locals”

Richard Sherman

September 30, 2025

We totally agree with your philosophy of travel. Interactions are a special part of being in another society. They can allow a traveler to make personal connections that can do much to counter prejudice, correct false conceptions of other people’s capabilities,, undo mistaken notions about the nature of their culture, and reduce unjustified arrogance about our own. Great blog!

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1. leahlarkin
  
  October 1, 2025
  
  And a great comment. Thanks so much. The rewards and benefits of travel are transformative and immeasurable.
  
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  1. hrector122
    
    October 6, 2025
    
    Loved travel. Listening and absorbing places by osmosis. I am glad we travelled so much before the crowds of today. Cell phones and cruise ship. I loved Africa. Even when the baboons trashed our tent. Wonderful cheery people. Morocco was the best trip. But two safaris eere wonderful. Madagascar was somewhat of a bust. We got there on a small cruise ship. The staff arranging the land trips did a crap job. Yes we saw a few lemurs. And we were amazed by the empty spaces of the Indian Ocean. Glad you keep us informed. Travel on, Leah.
    
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  2. leahlarkin
    
    October 18, 2025
    
    We were fortunate to visit so many wonderful places before they were overrun with tourists. I still want to travel, but am seeking out the less popular, such as Madagascar. I am not ready to give up yet.
    
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ON SAFARI

Elephants, giraffes, zebra, kudos, wildebeest, a hyena — I saw them all on my drive from the airport in Skukuza, South Africa, to the Idube safari lodge 3 1/2 hours away. I was excited and decided this was a good omen meaning lots more to come. I was right.

The highlight on the drive was a mother hyena with two tiny, lively puppies. Driver Cheryl said they were just a few days old, if that. Mom was worn out, sleeping soundly, not disturbed by one of her offspring who was chewing on her ear.

I spent the next two days at the Idube lodge and the following two days at the Motswari Game lodge. Both are vast private game reserves in Greater Kruger, an area with unfenced boundaries outside but adjacent to the Kruger National Park.

Game drives begin in the wee hours, about 6 a.m. It was winter in South Africa, coal black and cold, freezing, at that hour. Hot water bottles and blankets are provided, but still frosty until the sun pops up. At 9 we returned to the lodge for a hearty breakfast, setting out again about 3 p.m. for an afternoon drive.

A tracker sits on a special elevated seat in the front of the safari vehicle, his eagle and trained eyes searching for tracks, movement, listening for sounds, any sign of animal life. The driver/field guide is an encyclopedia of info, as well as a fearless driver, charging off road at Formula 1 speed to reach a site before the animal moves on. Duck under branches, bounce over bumps and ruts, hold onto your seat — more thrills than an amusement park ride.

An abrupt halt. There — right in front of us — is the Lion King, gnawing on a bloody piece of carcass. A thrilling, awesome, incredible sight. You almost need to pinch yourself to be sure it’s real.

As in this instance, it is astonishing how close the vehicles get to the animals which completely ignore the visitors. They are accustomed to human intruders and definitely not camera shy. Even with a phone camera you can get decent photos (I used an I-phone 16 pro). For perfection, however, serious gear is best.

Following are photos of my “sightings.” Since I am a “childless cat lady” who adores cats, large and small, I will devote a separate post to cats. I saw many, all magnificent. Watch this space.

No shortage of elephants on the game drives: majestic males, families, youngsters. These mammoth creatures can live to be 60 to 80 years old. If they manage to survive that long, they die of starvation as their teeth wear out, making it impossible to chew food. The elephant gestation period is 22 months and “babies” nurse for three to four years. Elephants can eat for up to 18 hours per day.

Rhinos, with and without horns. The horns are treasured in many Asian countries for medicinal properties, although there is no scientific evidence that the horns have medicinal value. In some countries, namely Vietnam, the horns are a luxury item and status symbol.

Hence, poachers kill for the valuable horns. In the Idube reserve, rhinos are de-horned at the age of two to dissuade the poachers. Not so in the Timbavati private reserve where the Motswari lodge is located.

There guide Landon told us that dehorned rhinos are defenseless against predators and in territorial disputes with other rhinos. Poachers may still kill them to avoid tracking the same rhino again. And, the dehorning procedure must be repeated every 12-24 months, expensive and labor intensive. It can also alter natural behavior, leading to social disruption. Rhinos in Timbavati keep their horns.

The buffalo, one of Africa’s most dangerous animals, is one of the Big Five of African wildlife (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and Cape or African buffalo). We were lucky and saw not just a few of these aggressive beasts, but hundreds crossing a lake.

We never spotted a hippo out of the water, but we did see lots of hippo heads up for air in various lakes. Hippos can stay under water for six to seven minutes, we learned, and they eat grass not meat.

Ian, the guide in Idube, told us the hippo is the number two killer in South Africa, following malaria, number one. Number three is the buffalo. Landon at Motswari disagreed on number two. He said number two is the crocodile, not the hippo which is number three. Both put malaria as the number one killer.

An African safari is a thrilling, rewarding, unforgettable experience. In addition to being awed by the wildlife, I was intrigued with the country and its citizens. I talked to South Africans about their languages, tribal customs, problems in the country and life since the official end of apartheid in 1994. A look beyond safari in the next post.

Below, more photos.

Another hyena mom with puppies, one with his neck in her mouth. Guide Landon said the adorable hyena puppies are his favorite baby animal.

Wild dog puppies. The guide said two nearby packs were having a territorial dispute. The fight did not interest the playful puppies, but our vehicle did.

These fellows, nyala and a wildebeest, hung out in the front yard of my room at Idube. All were very tame, including the wildebeest. I thought I could try to pet him, but suddenly I heard screams. I was warned that he might decide I was not so friendly and turn those horns on me. I retreated.

This hornbill joined us for breakfast, hoping for treats.

Impalas are more numerous than other African antelopes.

I booked my African adventure, South Africa (Kruger) and Madagascar, with Worldwide Quest, http://www.worldwidequest.com

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. More about my travels in future posts: South Africa beyond safari, Big cats, the mysteries and marvels of Madagascar.

No new recipe this time. But, it’s not too late to take advantage of those summer tomatoes and try this delicious Savory Tomato Tarte Tatin. For more recipes, click here.

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Back on the Road Again

“Madame, vous êtes à la fin, » (Madame, you are at the end (of life), she announced as she massaged my ancient body. I had to chuckle, thinking to myself, “Yes, I know. But did you need to remind me?”

I had treated myself to a massage at an upscale hotel in Nosy Be, Madagascar, Part II of my solo voyage to South Africa and Madagascar (Mada), the world’s fifth poorest country.

Why would a handicapped old lady traveling alone (me) come to Madagascar? It was obvious those I met on the journey were surprised, if not baffled. I did not fit the profile of the typical Mada tourist.

Madagascar is a fascinating, gorgeous country, but crime ridden and poor – very poor. Most visitors are young and fit or older and fit, exploring Mada’s rich biodiversity and incredible landscapes which involve long, rigorous journeys over mainly dirt roads. Mada is huge, the world’s fourth largest island. Distances are great. Due to my disability, my excursions were near cities and mainly on paved roads with a private driver/guide – nonetheless challenging at times.

I was apprehensive, if not nervous, prior to departure. Had I taken a step too far? I was petrified of falling again. But I charged ahead.

A woman I met my first night at a hotel in Mada gave me some words of wisdom. She is a health care worker who has a daughter with disabilities. “You need to push yourself, test your boundaries. Use it or lose it.’’

I reflected on those words many times in Mada – when faced with uneven, stony or dirt terrain to navigate, steep steps with no railings, hills with no steps. “You can do it. Slowly. Carefully,” I told myself.

Travel has been my lifelong passion. I relish learning about different lands, cultures, traditions. I love talking to locals. You learn so much. It is enriching. It can change who you are. Travel adds perspective to life and understanding of the world.

My late husband Bob shared my passion for travel and adventure. We traveled near and far. After several difficult years suffering from Alzheimer’s, he passed way two years ago. About the same time, I had a horrendous fall – a complicated femur break and a broken shoulder. Despite numerous surgeries, I have limited mobility and need a cane to walk. And, I don’t have full motion of my left arm following the injury.

I am à la fin, handicapped, but still alive. I can walk, albeit slowly. I no longer have a travel partner. What to do? Sit on the couch, watch TV ad wait to die?

NO. NO. Get up. Get going. Get back on the road again. I did. It was invigorating. I felt alive again. I loved it.

As Saint Augustine said, “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” I want to read all the pages.

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. More about my travels in future posts: Sensational wildlife in South Africa, the mysteries of Madagascar.

See below for a new recipe just in time for all those ripe tomatoes.

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TODAY’S TASTE – Savory Tomato Tarte Tatin

Savory Tomato Tarte Tatin

Click below photo for recipe. For more recipes, click here.

Return to Germany

Like I remembered. Idyllic. We were surrounded by green, pure nature, at the Fischerhütte near Darmstadt, Germany.

*Thekla, Andrea and Thiemo at the Fischerhuettte*

Many, many years ago when I worked as a journalist at the newspaper Stars and Stripes, I lived not so far away. I remember hikes to the hütte in the forest. I remember treks to secret places in that forest in search of the coveted steinpilze (boletus, cepes, porcini – whatever the name, the king of mushrooms). I remember the tranquility, the beauty of those woods.

It was wunderbar to return to Germany after so many years. I have missed Deutschland – old friends, favorite foods, the lush forests.

Trout for lunch at the Fischerhuette, and the best German beverage, beer.

Andrea, the daughter of an old friend, her husband Thiemo and her sweet mother, Thekla, led me down memory lane, not just to the Fischerhütte, but other special spots. It was magical.

Many more memories were rekindled with friends in the Stuttgart area where I lived with husband Bob (RIP) for many years.

Gerlinde welcomed me in her Stuttgart home. Like many of my friends, she is a foodie par excellence, even making her own yogurt and ice cream. She is also devoted to fitness and swims against the jet stream in her pool for 20 minutes every day. I just swam, minus the jet stream.

*Gerlinde swims daily against a powerful water jet — Impressive.*

We drove to Steinenbronn, past the apartment where Bob and I lived for 11 happy years. At a nearby restaurant, I indulged in my very favorite Swabian special, Zwiebelrostbraten (onion steak) with homemade Spaetzle.

I can’t complain about food on the Mediterranean coast where I now live, yet there is a shortage of ethnic eateries.

Not so in Germany where, among others, Turkish restaurants abound. I miss those, too. Marianne treated me to lunch at her friendly neighborhood Turkish restaurant. I wanted to bring those flavors back to France.

Then, that de rigeur German ritual, afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) at her apartment.

Fun conversation and memories of good times enhanced all those luscious tastes.

My friends indeed lavished me with generous and delicious hospitality. Dagmar invited me and other friends to her home for a tasty lunch with a scrumptious raspberry cream dessert. And, Heti invited us to a multi-course dinner of exquisite delicacies, each worthy of a magazine photo (photos below). This was especially remarkable as she had fallen and broken her wrist the day before.

On my last day we met in Bebenhausen. Bob and I were avid cyclists. We liked to pedal from Steinenbronn to this tiny burg with an ancient monastery and an excellent restaurant. It is still charmingly picturesque. My last treat before heading home, another German delicacy: Rehrücken filet (venison filet). Delectable.

Living on the Mediterranean coast, I have the sea, palm trees, the Maritime Alps, tropical gardens – but no dense, enchanting forests. I had not realized that I was forest deprived. I was in awe of all the fabulous German greenery.

I mentioned this to Andrea, so we visited yet more. “I’ve never been to so many forests in one day,” she said. Gerlinde told me that Stuttgart has more green space than any other German city.

“The woods are lovely, dark and deep…,” and a treasure.

Thank you, dear friends, I loved my return to Germany –especially seeing all of you.

Below: Heti’s superb creations. Each was mouthwatering.

I will add a new recipe next time. Meanwhile, for an easy, tasty dessert, try my recent discovery, RUM-SOAKED MANGOES. Sinfully delicious.

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. Thrilling adventure coming: South Africa, Madagascar and Mauritius.

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