Insights on South Africa: View from locals

Travel is more than the places you visit, the sights you see and the experiences you enjoy.   It’s also the people you meet:  guides, shop keepers, drivers, hotel personnel, other travelers. 

I relish talking to all. During my recent travels to South Africa and Madagascar, I asked folks about local customs, politics, food, travel and more.  

I found the South African marriage traditions intriguing.  Driver Stan filled me in. No matter where they live in the country, South Africans go back to their home village for matrimony.  But, before the big day a man must pay lobola to his fiancé’s family — at least five cows (about $500 each or more depending on the type and size of cow).    Stan has a fiancé, but so far only three cows. He’s lucky.  Educated brides go for much more, as many as 10 cows.

Cheryl, another driver, explained South African languages. The country has 11 official languages, mostly tribal languages, as well as English and Afrikaans, a Germanic language derived from Dutch. The Dutch were the original settlers in South Africa. Zulu is the most widely spoken tribal language.  Many South Africans, like Cheryl who speaks Xhosa, her tribal language and English, are multi lingual.

Politics is a topic I like to explore. What I learned about South Africa was surprising.  I talked to locals about life since the official end of apartheid in 1994.  Many were too young to remember the dark times, but knew all too well about the years of cruel segregation.

All those I spoke with lamented the crime, corruption and unemployment plaguing the country now.  Of course, it’s wonderful to be free, they said, but they claim that during apartheid these problems were not so drastic. 

“There’s nothing but corruption now,” said Jacky, an employee at a safari lodge. “The white government took better care of the people…. They (today’s government) promised us a new road four years ago.  Nothing has happened.    Now when it rains the road floods and the kids can’t go to school… the government promises everything but does nothing.” 

My contacts also said crime in the country has skyrocketed, especially in large cities.  There are places in Johannesburg where even South Africans do not venture.  “Yes, there’s crime,” said Jacky.  “But if people are unemployed and need to feed their children, what are they to do?” 

Andy, another lodge worker, does remember apartheid – separate toilets, long waits in line, always letting whites go ahead… “If I wanted to visit my father in Johannesburg, I had to apply for permission…  

“It’s difficult for me to say this as a South African,” he continued, “but the black rulers are corrupt. The older generation votes for them.  I hope in 10 years it will change. We (younger generation) need to take control.”

Food is another topic high on my list.  My meals at the safari lodges were all star quality and taste.  South African wildlife, I learned, is not just for tourists to admire. It’s also a good source of protein.  Popular game meat include impala, kudo, springbok, ostrich, etc. I was not overwhelmed with ostrich, but impala was delicious. 

 One evening I had dinner with John, a food manager for several game lodges.  His oxtail stew was exquisite. I requested the recipe, although I am not sure I can find oxtail.  He assured me I could substitute beef, preferably chuck.  

John grew up in self-sustaining family. “My grandmother made the bread…We ate all animal parts.” His love of food and cooking took him to London where he worked as a chef in several restaurants.  He found it “stressful” and is happy to be back in South Africa, planning menus and ordering food for five different lodges.  

Fellow travelers are also fun and interesting.  I was astonished at how well traveled so many of those I met were.  Working remotely gives folks the time and freedom to explore the world, and it appears many are doing just that. 

 At a hotel in Madagascar, I met a group of medical personnel and health workers en route to volunteer on the hospital ship Mercy docked on the country’s coast. It was fascinating to learn about their admirable work.  One volunteer from New Zealand, who has a handicapped daughter, gave me, a handicapped traveler, excellent advice.  “You need to push yourself, test your boundaries.  Use it or lose it.”

Favorite places visited was the topic of an after- dinner discussion at a safari lodge. This group had traveled far and wide. Thailand, Japan, South Korea, Brazil and Iceland were among favorite destinations.  

 I asked about the most memorable travel experience.  My #1 unforgettable adventure was trekking to see the gorillas in Rwanda.  Canadian Christine, who had been to Rwanda and seen the gorillas, also put that on the top of her list, as did South African Matthew, although his gorilla trek was in Uganda.  

Australian John, whom I met at another lodge, was passionate about Africa and photography.  His high-tech gear was impressive.  It seemed he had been to most every African country, including Madagascar, my next destination.  He gave me some helpful advice.

Travel teaches us about different lands, cultures, religions… It enhances understanding and tolerance.  It is rewarding.  Talk to locals, listen and learn. It will enrich your journey.

I booked my African adventure, South Africa (Kruger) and Madagascar, with Worldwide Quest, http://www.worldwidequest.com

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. Big cats coming soon, plus the mysteries and marvels of Madagascar.

TODAY’S TASTE: Rum Raisin Carrot Cake