Tales and Travel

France: Lockdown #2

Happy Black Friday. Sadly it is blacker than ever in the U.S. as recent newspaper headlines testify:

“As Americans gather for Thanksgiving, the world watches with dread and disbelief.”

“Coronavirus deaths reach levels unseen since early in the pandemic”

“Coronavirus cases skyrocketing again in cities.”

Millions have thrown caution to the wind, ignored the CDC guidelines, and traveled to celebrate with friends and family. These gatherings are termed “super spreader events.” The prediction is grim. “Celebrate at Thanksgiving. Christmas in the ICU.” Fortunately many are behaving sensibly, not traveling, foregoing large gatherings.

As an American in France where restrictions are respected and followed for the most part, and the numbers seem to be going down, I have to wonder about Americans. How can they be so stupid? Of course, in part it’s due to the politicization of the pandemic which is inexcusable. Trump has made light of the crisis. It’s not macho to wear a mask. Instead of leading, he plays golf and thousands die each day. From the beginning, there has been no national plan to combat the spread of the disease. It is scandalous, shameful, tragic, and too many have been sacrificed due to this neglect and ineptitude. This from the most powerful, richest country on the globe. — all beyond belief.

Bob and Thomas play checkers — at home entertainment during lockdown.

Life under Lockdown is no picnic in France, but I’d rather be here where the situation is slowly improving than in US where it is out of control, where hospitals are running out of beds and exhausted health care workers complain of shortages of essential equipment.

In France, we have been under partial lockdown since October 30. This has not been as strict as lockdown #1 last winter and spring. Schools, for example, have stayed open. Nonetheless, life has been far from normal. Tuesday evening President Emanuel Macron announced that France has passed the peak of the second wave. A three phase loosening of restrictions begins this weekend. After the last lockdown abruptly ended, all returned to normal too quickly, it appears. The virus slowly returned with a vengeance. Thus, this time, a long and progressive relaxation of restrictions will be put in place.

Wear a mask, warns the sign along the Promenade des Anglais in Nice.

Until now, only food stores, pharmacies and a few other businesses considered “essential” have been open. Just in time for Christmas shopping, other stores will open Saturday as part of phase 1 and be permitted to stay open until 9 p.m. and on Sundays, both unheard of in France where most all stores are closed on Sunday and shut down by 6 or 7 p.m. Just as in lockdown #1, outdoor exercise, walks, have been limited to one hour per day and within a one kilometer distance from your residence. However now we will have freedom to venture up to 20 kilometers from home and be out for up to three hours – but not after the 9 p.m. curfew.

*Wine stores have remained open.* After all, in France wine is essential.

Just as during lockdown #1, we must fill out the “attestation” whenever we leave home – a document with name, address, birthdate, time of departure and a check next to one of the permitted activities/reasons for the departure (food shopping, doctor visits, exercise, plus a few others). If you are caught without the authorization or disobeying the rules, you can be fined 135 euros.

Excercise on the beach –this time it is permitted.

We were diligently obedient during the previous lockdown and stayed very close to our apartment when out. This time we have taken liberties. The parks and beaches, which were closed last time, have stayed open. I love the beach, although it is a bit farther away than one kilometer. I still swim, my therapy. Yes, it’s cold and getting colder, but it is exhilarating. Bob often walks while I swim.

Very few swimmers brave the chilly waters.

If all is well and the numbers continue to go down, Phase 2 begins on Dec. 15. Travel throughout France will be permitted. Cinemas, theaters and museums will reopen. The 9 p.m curfew will still be enforced, with the exception of Dec. 24 and 31. Ski resorts will not reopen for the holidays.

Restaurants and bars will have to wait until Jan. 20 to reopen – Phase 3. This is devastating for the struggling industry.

Outdoor markets have stayed open…my joy.

Take-outs have never been popular in France, with the exception of pizza. That has changed. To survive, many restaurants now offer carry-out meals. We recently stopped by a tiny, nearby Moroccan restaurant. A sign outside listed the menu of the day available to take home. Our favorite fish, dorade (sea bream) , was featured. We rang the bell. We would need to wait 15 – 20 minutes, the owner/chef told us. It was cold. He invited us in, pulled the drapes to hide us (restaurants are not permitted to have customers inside). He let us order wine, even brought a dish of tasty olives, to enjoy as we waited. “It’s been so long,” he lamented.

It was such a treat – a glass of wine in a restaurant. The fish with potatoes and veggies was delicious. We will do this again and try a Moroccan special, but he urged us to call ahead and order. He can’t risk hiding us inside again.

Hidden inside the tiny restaurant, we enjoyed an apero, wine and olives — . fabulous.

Today we had a take out lunch, kebab, from a stand across from the beach. Noisy, hungry seagulls joined us as we sat on a seaside bench with our treats. Blissful.

The French are not happy with life under lockdown. As everywhere, the economic consequences are dire. They complain, but for the most part, they comply. Almost all wear masks and social distance as much as possible. They take the health threat seriously and do not consider it a hoax nor a conspiracy.

Black Friday, a retail extravaganza, has become popular around the world. French retailers were very upset as the original lockdown restrictions do not end until tomorrow, Saturday, Nov. 28, so they could not open for this great opportunity to make up for lost revenue. Saved by the government. In France, Black Friday has been officially postponed until next Friday, Dec. 4.

You won’t find me standing in line for bargains. I’d rather chill at the beach.

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Cat’s Meow in Monaco

They were not impressed, excited, nor interested. Stretched out in their large cages, they did what cats do best: Sleep. The 145 cats entered in the first international cat show of Monaco were quite content to catnap through their two days of glory. That’s how cats spend some 15 hours per day, even as many as 20 hours – snoozing. No need to let a cat show interrupt your beauty slumber.

When it was their turn to be in the spotlight, on the stage to be examined from tail to ears, they were tolerant, seemingly bored. No doubt many of these champions and would-be champions had been down this road before.

Such is the life of fancy cats. I love cats. I have three, but mine are your basic alley-cat variety – all rescues. Nonetheless when I learned of the cat show in nearby Monaco, I convinced hubby (not as enamored of felines as I am) to join me to check out the cats.

Enormous cats. Hairless cats. Long-haired cats. Cats of all colors. Thirty-nine different breeds to admire. I had no idea there were so many kinds of kitties, but I learned that The International Cat Association (TICA) recognizes 71 standardized breeds.

The favorite, most popular breed is the Maine Coon. These cats are big – huge. I was smitten with Pegase de Nikko Coon, a big boy who weighs in at 10 kilos (22 pounds). His proud owner, Christiane Phily, touted that he was still growing. His grandfather weighed 14 kilos (30 pounds), she told me. She has 20 of these giant felines known for their pleasant personality. “They are very impressive. They look wild, but they have an adorable character,” she said. Her starting price for a Maine Coon, about 1,000 euros ($1,170).

Years ago, when seeking a replacement for my beloved Buddy, a large and affectionate black cat, I decided after all my years of owning rescue cats, I was entitled to upgrade to a genuine pedigreed pet. I wanted a Maine Coon. Husband Bob, who is more than indulgent of my passion for cats, agreed to drive to a breeder some 3 hours away. I had wanted a male, but there was only one young male for sale. He was pretty, but he cowered in the back of the cage, not exhibiting the extrovert personality of the breed. Price tag was 600 euros.

I thought long and hard. I pictured all those pitiful, homeless cats in shelters. I could rescue one for a small donation. Did I really want to spend 600 euros on a cat? This one did not convince me. We drove home catless. The next day I went to the local shelter and came home with not one, but two tiny kittens – my girls Simba and Oprah. Sisters (twins), they almost look like mini Maine Coons.

No pedigree, but adorable and cute: Kittens Simba and Oprah.

In addition to cats coming from all over France for a chance at fame, the cat show included exhibits of haute gamme cat food, “adapted to the carnivorous diet of cats” (I came home with some free samples), cat toys, trees, beds. One exhibitor offered information on animal communication by telepathy. She claims to communicate with pets and transmit their messages to owners. She also offers courses in “animal communication and magnetism.” If you wanted a portrait of your cat, another offered animal aquarelles.

I had hoped to take some quality cat photos, but this was beyond my skills. The viewing wall of the cat cages was a sheet of reflective vinyl. The lighting was tricky. The backgrounds were dreadful. When not sleeping (boring photos), the cats were in motion.

I tried. Below are some classy cats, plus my not-so-classy cats.

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See Today’s Taste for a winning pasta recipe featuring egpplant, one of my favorites.

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Oman: Living High at the Beach

Apero hour under palm trees, their trunks wrapped in golden lights. Reflections dancing in adjacent pools. Guests lounging in comfy sofas and chairs on an elegant, marble-floored courtyard. Multi-lingual, attentive waiters serving drinks and tasty snacks. It was impressive, pure posh.

As we soaked in the classy ambience at the Shangri-La Al Husn Resort, conversation turned to past travels. “I liked those places we went to where the roads were not paved,” Bob said. We have had many exciting adventures to third world countries where, not only are the roads not paved, but sometimes the electricity fails, hot water is non existent. We reminisced about some of our favorites: Trekking through the sand with only a flashlight to guide us through the blackness, dodging ruts and driftwood branches, to a tiny, primitive beach shack in Myanmar where the fresh fish was fabulous and the family proprietors became our friends; Riding ancient, rickety bikes through back roads of Senegal, following Abou, our congenial bicycle guide, who invited us to his wedding, a colorful, spirited event deep in the boon docks; Ducking out of our lakeside tent in Kenya for a middle-of-the night trek to the toilet on the other side of a field when a guide’s spotlight shone on a bloat (group) of hippos heading in our direction.

So, what were we doing in this 5* plus beach resort in Oman? It was our last hurrah, a final fling. We knew that with advancing age and medical issues, those adventures we cherish were no longer feasible. Bob was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s two years ago. Arthritis is taking its toll on my aging body. We decided to treat ourselves to a first class voyage. (We traveled in January. The trip was booked long before Covid 19 changed the world. )

Everything about our two-week trip was ultra – except airfare. That was, per usual, economy with extra leg room seats.

The Shangri-La Al Husn Resort and Spa is about a half hour from the new, state-of-the-art airport of Muscat, the capital of the Sultanate of Oman. The resort is part of a complex of three hotels. Our hotel, the priciest, was built atop a beachside cliff.

We booked half board at Al Husn. The all-inclusive price was expensive, but with all the over-the-top amenities, seemed reasonable.

Al Husn with the infinity pool and the Gulf of Oman

Our spacious room’s fruit basket was refilled daily. There was no extra charge for drinks, including beer and wine, and snacks from the mini bar. We rarely indulged as copious food and beverages were offered throughout the day.

Starting with breakfast: Mind boggling. Several rooms brimming with all manner of buffet selections to suit the tastes and customs of numerous nationalities, from Asian favorites, to smoked fish to sausage and eggs. The array of fresh fruit was gorgeous and intriguing – things I had never seen before.

There was also a breakfast menu, which, in addition to standard selections (scrambled eggs, pancakes etc.) featured specials that changed daily. I tried a different one each day. During breakfast a waiter or waitress came to offer the smoothie of the day, not to mention coffee refills.

No need for lunch after that, especially since breakfast continued until 11 a.m. You could linger on the terrace and enjoy sea and cliff views.

More pampering at the pool or beach. As you arrive, an attendant greets you and leads you to a lounge chair, presenting you with, not just towels, but a mini cooler filled with bottled water, fruit juice and a refreshing facial spray. The lounge cushions are extra thick. Some of the lounges are king bed size. In the afternoon about 3 p.m., an attendant strolls by offering sherbet, featuring the flavor of the day – strawberry, mango, banana…

Since our hotel was atop a cliff, its beach, a walk down a pathway, was small, however, its infinity pool was huge. And, we could use the wide sandy beach of the adjacent hotels along the shore

Not long after the sherbet pause, it’s time for a British break, high tea. Oman was a British Protectorate from 1891 – 1951. Tea (you can opt for coffee) is served from 3:45 p.m. to 4:45 p.m. on the same restaurant terrace as breakfast with the photo-perfect views. This time a waiter arrives at the table with a glass case enclosing three savory and three sweet treats. They were different every day, and we ate them all.

No time to work up an appetite for the aperitif snacks. Apero hour is from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. Fortunately the snacks are petite, but delicious. Music is normally featured during the apero hour, but in honor of the recent death of Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, who ruled the country for almost 50 years, music was banned in the country for 40 days. Even with music, Al Husn would be quiet. No children are permitted at this hotel.

Among the three hotels, we had our choice of six restaurants. Our package included dinner and wine at a buffet restaurant with amazing selections. We dined there a few times, but also tried the others: Italian, seafood, international, Moroccan and Middle Eastern. At these, we had had a budget of 25 rial ($65) per person. We had to pay for exceeding the limit which we often did. We like wine – very costly in Oman. A glass was about $19.50. But, hey, this was our splurge trip, and we did limit ourselves to one glass each.

Al Husn means castle. We indeed felt like royalty during the 10 days we spent in this luxurious ambience. At times it seemed too much. Yet, we enjoyed the serenity, the beautiful surroundings—not to mention all those amenities.

The complex of three hotels has 640 rooms, 180 of which belong to Al Husn. The staff, from 800 to 1,000 employees depending on season, represent 44 different nationalities.

Yes, it was a major splurge, but every penny well spent. As my wonderful husband often says, “You can’t take it with you.” Covid aside, this was our last big trip and a perfect finale.

For more on Oman, use the search option above right for Oman. There are three posts: Oman’s Mighty Mountains, Oman: Luxury in the Desert and Introducing Awesome Oman. Still more to come — Muscat, the fascinating capital. If you want to know more about Senegal or Myanmar, do a search on those countries. I wrote several posts on each.

Today’s Taste, upper right, features a refreshing summer salad, Cucumbers in Sour Cream Dill Sauce. Click on photo for recipe and scroll down for more recipes.

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Covid-19: France and the U.S.

These are trying, troubled times, especially in the United States where Covid -19 seems out of control. As an American living in France, I found the article, “Do Americans Understand How Badly They’re Doing,” which appeared in The Atlantic on July 5, pathetically pertinent. The author of the article, Thomas Williams Chatterton, is an American who … Continue reading “Covid-19: France and the U.S.”

img_0042_compressed — We were happy when our neighborhood park reopened, These ancient olive trees are magnificent,

https://www.theatlantic.com/ideas/archive/2020/07/america-land-pathetic/613747/

Williams relates his experience of returning with his family to Paris after having spent the lockdown, “one of the world’s most aggressive quarantines,” in a rural village. Paris was bustling, minus tourists but with lots of locals enjoying their new freedom. This worried him. Many seemed indifferent to the discipline that was required– masks, social distancing.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA — Restaurants in France have reopened, Above, Beaulieu-sur-Mer

“I couldn’t shake the feeling that France was also opening up recklessly early. But I was wrong to worry. As Donald Trump’s America continues to shatter records for daily infections, France, like most other developed nations and even some undeveloped ones, seems to have beat back the virus,” he wrote. He cited Texas, Florida, and Arizona where the virus appears out of control. He wrote of a tweet by musician Rosanne Cash stating that her daughter had been called a “liberal pussy!” in Nashville for wearing a mask to buy groceries.

‘That insult succinctly conveys the crux of the problem. American leadership has politicized the pandemic instead of trying to fight it. I see no preparedness, no coordinated top-down leadership of the sort we’ve enjoyed in Europe. I see only empty posturing, the sad spectacle of the president refusing to wear a mask, just to own the libs. What an astonishing self-inflicted wound,” he wrote.

Chatterton also wrote of the EU travel ban on visitors from the U.S.and other hot-spot nations. “The EU believes that the United States is no better than Russia and Brazil—autocrat-run public-health disasters—and that American tourists would pose a dire threat to the hard-won stability our lockdown has earned us. So much for the myth that the American political system and way of life are a model for the world.”

img_0051_compressed — Enjoying the Mediterranean — before the crowds.

Chatterton worries about his parents in the U.S., in their ’70s and ’80s and “at the mercy of a society that is failing extravagantly to protect them… from a tough and dangerous foe that many other societies have wrestled into submission.” — Thomas Chatterton Williams, author of “Self Portrait in Black and White”

I too am worried — about friends and family in the U.S., about the state of the country where I was born. The virus is not the only woe plaguing the U.S. The world watched in horror as George Floyd was despicably murdered. We have witnessed police brutality, raw racism. Gun violence is increasing. The country is being torn apart with hatred, lies, dangerous conspiracies – plus the virus. It’s all hard to fanthom. Yet, despite all the gloom, on one front I remain optimistic. At last it seems to be sinking in. Black Lives do Matter. More and more are waking up to the reality, the cruelty and injustice of systemic racism in the country. Change will be slow, but it’s underway. That gives me hope.

POST LOCKDOWN CHEZ NOUS

I feel guilty writing about our lives in France now. With the exception of masks and social distancing, all seems normal. Maybe too normal. As we see hot spots emerging in places where all was under control — Australia, for example — I have to worry and wonder about the dangers that may lie ahead. It is especially troubling when I see large groups of maskless folk. Nonetheless, since our strict lockdown ended on May 11, we have enjoyed returning to beloved Italy to see a friend and shop. We have been to restaurants, but always dining outside. We visited friend Karen in Beaulieu- sur -Mer and walked along the coast together.

fullsizeoutput_2cc3_compressed — Sainte Agnes

We explored Sainte Agnes, a nearby hillside town. I have been to the beach, but it is crowded and chaotic. We are lucky. Our apartment building has a beautiful pool – crowd free. I’d prefer to swim in the Med, but the pool is serene, soothing and safe. We are fortunate to be here.

img_0141_compressed — No crowds at the pool.

Please, wherever you are, wear a mask. Social Distance. Stay home if possible. Read. The following two articles, both recommended by friend Trina who has survived lockdown in Italy, are enlightening. They are part of the New York Times 1619 Project which examines the legacy of slavery in America.

You Want a Confederate Monument? My Body Is a Confederate Monument
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/26/opinion/confederate-monuments-racism.html?referringSource=articleShare

If you want to understand the brutality of American capitalism, you have to start on the plantation. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/08/14/magazine/slavery-capitalism.html

On the topic of slavery and racism, two brilliant novels I can recommend, both by Colson Whitehead: “The Underground Railroad” and “The Nickel Boys.”

This following Washington Post article is heartbreaking, tragic, and yet another example of the inhumanity of DT : “Clint Lorance had been in charge of his platoon for only three days when he ordered his men to kill three Afghans stopped on a dirt road. A second-degree murder conviction and pardon followed. Today, Lorance is hailed as a hero by President Trump. His troops have suffered a very different fate.”

https://s2.washingtonpost.com/2a3bebc/5efdc500fe1ff6482db2578b/598779019bbc0f6826f2bcdf/9/62/5a5741db5c3042f128b758adc4dd8420

Scroll down for some happy scenes. And, feel free to add your thoughts. See Leave a Reply below, then scroll to bottom. Comments welcome. If not a talesndtravel follower, sign up, upper right. Your address is kept private, not shared,

img_7891_compressed — Sunrise on the Mediterranean.

img_7968_compressed — Karen, Bob and Cindy on the beach in Camporoso. — our first outing to Italy after lockdown ended.