Cat Lover’s Adventure in South Africa

Childless cat lady – that’s me.  I have been passionate about felines all my life, and have always had a cat, or several cats, in my life.

My safari to South Africa last summer gave me the opportunity to observe big cats in the wild.  It was thrilling, and fascinating to learn more about these majestic creatures from the guides and trackers.  In many cases, they know the animals, and their backstories, well. 

On the drive from the airport to my first safari lodge:  a leopard sighting. Driver Cheryl pointed out that the spotted feline was stalking a kudo, well camouflaged in the bush. Numerous cars had pulled over to observe.  Alas, we had to move on. Did the leopard succeed?  Or, did the kudo live another day?  

Eyes focused on a nearby kudo with hopes for a tasty lunch.

The next day on a safari trek, another leopard. This one was lounging near a tree with a hyena and a wildebeest not far off.   The partially-eaten carcass of an impala was lodged high up in the tree branches. We learned that leopards, excellent climbers, often drag their kill up trees to protect it from hungry predators.  

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Hyena in the background in photo on the left.

Hyenas are scavengers– and ferocious. We were told they charge any animal, except a male lion.  A leopard would not likely charge a hyena – too risky, according to the guide.  In this instance, the hyena and wildebeest were waiting for the cat to return to the tree and have another go at the carcass, hoping some tasty morsels would fall to the ground.

The leopard, named Raven Scott, was well known to our crew. He, and other wildlife in this park, are regularly monitored and studied.

Raven Scott enjoys a siesta knowing his bounty, leftovers from lunch, is safe in the branches above.

Later our tracker zeroed in on lion tracks, but no lion to be found.  He did smell the pee of a leopard.  “It smells like popcorn,” he said.  The potent urine smell is used to signal reproductive status, mark territory, and communicate with other leopards.

During excursions from my next safari lodge in another part of Greater Kruger, lions stole the show. 

A family group lounging in the sun on an abandoned airport runway intrigued us.   The guide said the male had made a recent kill of a buffalo.  He and two lionesses were knocked out, digesting their feast.  We could see the lion’s bloated stomach. He obviously savored “a lion’s share” of that buffalo.

We later returned to the site. The lion had departed, but the “girls” were still enjoying R & R.    

Lions are the only social cat, we learned.  Family groups stay together.  Not so with the leopard and other cats who are solitary souls, only getting together to mate or raise cubs.

The following day our eagle-eye guide found the lion with his leftover kill.   Vultures hovering above and a strong putrid stench led us to him.  He was sacked out, a pause after yet another feast. Again, we could see his enlarged stomach.  The rotting carcass and zillions of flies were nearby.

Note remains of buffalo, at left behind sleeping lion.

We returned later.  He was awake and joined by his brother.  They shared the carcass until one got fed up and growled. The other took no chances.  He seized a hunk and moved away.

There was also a leopard sighting later that day– another beauty, this one snoozing in a tree in what seemed a most uncomfortable position. That fabulous signature tail dangled from the branches. Leopard tails, which are almost as long as the animal’s body, are used for balance while climbing.

I was elated with all the cat sightings.  For a cat lady, it was awesome. But, also good to come home to my Simba.

I booked my African adventure, South Africa (Kruger) and Madagascar, with Worldwide Quest, http://www.worldwidequest.com

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. Madagascar: mysteries and marvels, coming next.

Today’s Taste, a winner of a holiday cookie: Christmas Cookies: Cranberry Walnut Delights

For more recipes, click here.

10 responses to “Cat Lover’s Adventure in South Africa”

  1. Karen

    I loved all the cats, but Simba is the cutest!
    Karen

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Cutest and definitely the sweetest. She is my treasure.

      Like

  2. tsaidel

    Wow you really got to see a lot of the leopards….and you took beautiful photos! I’ve always been told leopards (in Africa) are pretty shy so I’ve only ever had brief glimpses. Your photos are a treat. You should come to India to see tigers since you’re so fond of cats (though maybe you’ve already done that…I know you’ve been to India). Where to next?

    Tobi

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes, those leopards were a sensation. Husband Bob and I did see tigers in Rajasthan, and one leopard there after a harrowing drive, but he was far, far away — up on a rocky mt side.
      Ethiopia and Brazil (was in the Peace Corps there eons ago) are on my bucket list. I can hope.

      Like

  3. Bravo, Leah! The photos are simply fab! Did you lug an entire line of camera equipment or ??? Thank you so much for documenting your intrepid travels to regions we may never see in person–Gayle

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Those days of tons of camera equipment are long gone. My camera is my iPhone 6 pro. Love it.
      I hope my days of intrepid travel are not over. My bucket list is long, too long, but must keep working on it.

      Liked by 1 person

  4. angelafronzi

    Awesome photos!- as a fellow cat lover-you surely saw some wonderful cats – in their natural habitat- relaxed and well nourished! – and that leopard had obviously learnt Yoga? -how uncomfortable!! Your photos and tales are so interesting so k- Whats Next?! x

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Grazie mille. We love those cats. I was mesmerized and could have observed them for hours. Yes, that leopard conquered advanced Yoga. There will be more adventure. It keeps me alive. Stay tuned.

      Like

      1. Ortrud Hundertmark

        Hallo Leah ich lese immerwieder gerne deine Artikel. Sie sind sehr spannend und lebendig zu lesen. Weiter so…… Bis später Liebe Grüße Ortrud

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Hallo liebe Ortrud. Ich bin sehr dankbar das mein Blog dir gefällt. LG

        Like

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India’s Big Cats

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Beautiful Bhamsa

Wow! There he was, lounging high up on the rocks. Magnificent. Gorgeous. Bhamsa, a 3-year-old male leopard. On a previous safari in Africa, then one in Sri Lanka, I had hopes of a leopard sighting. No luck. These cats are secretive, elusive.

PHOTO-2018-05-08-15-58-37We were in the rugged countryside near Narlai, a rural village in Rajasthan, India. Just us, a guide and the jeep driver. First we bounced around the back country near our hotel, off roads, into fields, through bush, stopping frequently to scour the landscape. A few peacocks. Antelope. Errant cows. Nary a leopard. I was more than disappointed, certain this would be yet another failed mission.

Abruptly the driver turned around, backtracked through the village, on to a major road, racing like police on a chase. Hold on! A sharp turn onto a dirt track through rugged, barren terrain. The chase intensified.

As we approached a range of rocky slopes, the vehicle came to a speedy halt. “There, up there, a leopard.” Leopard? Where? I had a hard time finding him. Those spots and the beige coat blend in with the background. The guide gave me his binoculars. Yes. There he was. Awesome.

fullsizeoutput_9eaWe watched Bhamsa, mesmerized. He stared at us. My Olympus lens was not long enough for photos, but the guide took many with his Canon Power Shot and sent them to me on Whats App.

As we marveled at our leopard, out of nowhere appeared a young man with masala tea (an Indian special with spices), sandwiches and cookies. Also awesome.

We learned that eight leopards make their home in this region which is not on the popular Rajasthan tourist trek. Each leopard has his own territory of about 14 kilometers.

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Life expectancy for leopards is between 15-18 years. They weigh in between 70 -80 kilos, smaller than tigers which can weigh up to 200 kilos.

Bhamsa grew bored watching us, slowly stood up, stretched his long, lean beautiful body and moved on, jumping onto rocks out of our sight.

The excitement, the thrill of viewing wild beasts — be they gorillas, elephants, lions, leopards — in their natural habitat is like no other. I can’t get enough.

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According  to the last census (2014) there are 2,226 tigers in India which has 50 tiger reserves.

India rewarded us – not just with one leopard, but two tigers. We joined a group safari in Ranthambore National Park, a vast wildlife reserve in Rajasthan and home to 68 tigers. This time we were in a jeep with four others, some of whom had been on many tiger safaris and had interesting tales to tell.

On our morning trek we saw the imposing 10th century Ranthambore Fort up on a hillside, as well as the ubiquitous peacocks and antelope. Leopards also make their home in the park, but it is the tigers for which it is known.

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Due to shrinking habitats in India, leopards and tigers sometimes enter villages, killing livestock.  Humans have also been attacked.

After several boring hours, a tiger was spotted. That is, someone spotted a tiger. Again I failed to see it. This feline was sleeping in the brush, well camouflaged. All that was visible was the head. We drove around to another spot for a better view, soon followed by vehicle after vehicle. Word had spread fast.

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We, and at least 12 other vehicles filled with eager eyes, waited and waited. My patience was dwindling. I had seen enough of the tiger’s head. The guide knew best. The tiger would wake up.

It did. He sat up for awhile, taking in the conglomeration of vehicles, perhaps hoping we would disappear. No way. Not concerned, after a bit he headed in our direction, closer and closer. Even my Olympus could handle this. Ranthambore tigers are obviously accustomed to an audience.

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And, not far behind, another stunning tiger. They were brother and sister, 1½ year old cubs, we learned. They paraded by, the female following her brother, remarkably close to the safari jeeps.

Too close for comfort was the tiger which jumped in front of a resident at our lodging, Khem Villas, located in the wilderness on the edge of the park. The gentleman from London decided to take an early morning stroll (5 a.m.) and was standing by the pool when the tiger jumped from a wall. He froze. The tiger went her way. All was well. We later learned that a few days earlier another resident had spotted the tiger drinking at the pond on the property. I was not so lucky, but I was overwhelmed with the footage of the same tiger, a mother with two precious 2-month old cubs dutifully following behind, that had been captured by the hotel motion camera.

According to the staff, the tiger has left the park in search of new territory to protect her babies from a sex-hungry male. The latter are known to kill the cubs of a female if they want to mate. Khem Villas advises residents not to stray from the complex. Barriers are erected at night.

One of our vehicle mates, a young man from Mumbai, knew more about tigers than the guides. He had been all over India on tiger safaris. I was fascinated with the story of Machli,a famous Ranthambore tiger, “the most photographed tiger in the world” who died at the age of 20 in 2016. She had seven liters of cubs and is legendary for killing a huge crocodile. Google her. There are pictures of the crocodile kill, and her funeral.

Our fascinating 11-day tour of Rajasthan was organized by Wild Frontiers. www.wildfrontiers.co.uk

After returning from India about a month ago, we launched into house sale, a big project which has left me no time for blogging.   We must downsize and hope to move close to the Med. I have missed blogging and have much more to tell about India, and Egypt,  and where we may move.  So stay tuned.

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It will be sad to leave, but now is the time.

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