Christmas markets – Tales and Travel

MERRY CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Several years ago I wrote versions of this article which appeared in various publications.

Dresden’s Frauenkirche and the Neumarkt Christmas market. Photo by S.Rose

My nose led me to the big black oven. The aromas wafting from behind its doors were heavenly and hunger inducing. Something delicious was certainly baking inside and I had to have a taste. I was in Dresden at the Striezelmarkt, the city’s Christmas market, and it was Stollen, a rich buttery cake with dried fruit, nuts and spices, turning golden inside the outdoor oven. Master baker Joachim Winkler was rolling another batch of dough as spectators watched the creation of Dresden’s famous holiday cake. Best of all, there were free samples to taste.

Dresden Christmas Stollen. Photo: Schutzverband Dresdner Stollen e. V., Claudia Jacquemin

That was many years ago. I lived in Germany then and sought out holiday markets every December. Major cities like Dresden usually have numerous markets in various locations throughout the town. However, Christmas markets in smaller towns, while perhaps not as grandiose, are equally as enticing.

The tradition of pre-Christmas markets originated in Germany in the late Middle Ages. The custom has spread throughout the world with Christmas markets on the calendar in numerous countries these days. Now I live in France where, sadly, I find Christmas markets a poor imitation of those magical events in Deutschland.

*Striezelmarkt* in Dresden Photo: Sebastian Weingart (DML-BY)

I especially miss going to the markets late in the day. When dark descends, as early as 4 p.m. in December, they are captivating scenes with twinkling lights sparkling on tinsel and gilded ornaments. If snow falls, it’s pure enchantment. People wrapped in heavy winter coats and woolen scarves pack the market square to eye the merchandise displayed at stalls decorated with swaths of fir and pine. Everything from holiday decorations to handicrafts, from mittens to furry slippers, is for sale. Aromas of cinnamon and cloves waft through the chilly air. And, in addition to Stollen, other delicious edible treats stir the appetite: grilled sausages, spicy cookies and Glühwein or “glowing wine,” hot spiced wine served in souvenir mugs.

A toast with *Gluehwein* at the Munich Christmas market. Photo: Anastasia Dvoryanova

After I tasted free samples of Stollen, I set off to investigate another stand emitting even more delectable aromas. Delicacies called “Quarkspitzen” were bobbing in a pot of bubbling fat. I’ve been to many a Christmas market, but I’d never encountered these gems. Little balls of dough with quark (curd cheese) in the middle, deep-fried and rolled in powdered sugar. Exquisite.

*Lebkuchen* (German gingerbread) is a seasonal favorite. Photo: Caleb Owens

Food is my favorite part of Christmas markets. Be it in Stuttgart, which claims to have Germany’s largest holiday market, or Nuremberg, which says its market is the most romantic, or Dresden, or any small-town Christmas market, there’s nothing quite like standing out in the winter cold, sipping a Glühwein and savoring a grilled bratwurst as church bells toll and children sing Christmas carols. Move on to another stand for another Glühwein and a healthy portion of Schupfnudeln (potato dumplings with sauerkraut) or Linseneintopf (a thick soup of lentils) and Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes). It’s a unique and thoroughly German culinary experience that is scrumptious.

Of course, the markets offer much more than food. Towering over the market in Dresden, in addition to a giant Christmas tree, is a gargantuan, lighted pyramid with carved wooden figures on multi-levels. Smaller versions of the hand-carved pyramids are a traditional holiday decoration dating back some 300 years. The pyramids have holders for candles. When lit, the heat rising from the candles sets the various levels of the pyramid turning, its figures spinning round and round. Woodcarvers in the nearby Erzgebirge (Ore mountains) region make the mobile decorations, as well as other beautiful hand-carved items such as candelabra, smokers (figures that blow smoke from incense cubes) and nutcrackers, which are famous throughout Germany. There are plenty of stands in Dresden, as well as other Christmas markets, selling these prized items of wood. I purchased a hand-carved candelabra with nativity figures which has become a cherished Christmas decoration.

Pyramid at the Dresden Christmas market.

I will spend Christmas in Abano Terme, Italy, a spa town I visited three years in the summer. (see previous post, Taking the Waters – and the Mud, July 2021) It was in the summer and much too hot. Christmas should be perfect. Maybe the mud treatments will soothe my injured body. Of course, a blog post will follow

Wishing all a joyous holiday season full of good food, good cheer and good friends.

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Christmas markets are everywhere these days. But none can compare with the original version in Germany. I miss the real thing, those romantic, storybook holiday markets: tiny twinkling lights (usually white or golden – not a jumble of gaudy colors), hot glϋhwein, savory sausages, spicy cookies, church bells, Christmas carols – all basking in German gemϋtlichkeit.

Since I am usually disappointed with French Christmas markets, I rarely visit them. Grambois was an exception. I read that this nearby perched town would

start the holiday season early with a Christmas market this weekend, Nov. 16 and 17. And, an American, the Provence head of a charitable organization, Calcutta Rescue, would be there with a stand selling items made by poor Indians.

There are plenty of Brits, Dutch, Belgians, and some Germans, living among the French in this picturesque part of France. But, very few Americans. I wanted to meet him and learn more about Calcutta Rescue.

Glen Kendall, originally from Grand Junction, Co., lives with his Dutch wife in this burg of 1100 citizens. He had been working for a software company in London when he saw an ad for an administrator for the Calcutta based charity. He got the job and was off to Calcutta for a year. He said he’s been to other parts of India, but nothing prepared him for Calcutta. “It’s full of energy 24 hours per day, chaotic, filthy, polluted.” He lived in a Muslim slum where the electricity worked about two thirds of the day. The people made the job. “The poor people have a joie de vivre that’s inspirational. It makes you happy to be alive. It’s hard to believe they live under a piece of plastic.”

Calcutta Rescue (www.calcuttarescue.org) helps the indigent of Calcutta, most of whom live on less than one euro per day. The organization runs three medical clinics and supports more than 600 poor children, most living in the streets, providing them with funds to go to school, clothes, two meals per day and medical care. A handicrafts project was started to teach former clinic patients how to sew. They learn a skill which can help them survive. They make clothes and handicraft items (cards, bags, embroidered napkins, etc). The latter are offered at the Grambois Christmas market. I especially liked the small embroidered bags containing Indian spices.

Kendall saw that I had a camera. “Let me show you something most visitors to Grambois don’t see, “ he said. He led me outside of the old village, down some steps to an incredible tree, a multi-trunked oak thought to be more than 300 years old. And, he told me where to wander for more photos.

We frequently drive on the main road below ancient Grambois. One time we followed the twisty road uphill to the village, but did not get out to explore. Now was my chance. It’s worth a trip. The town’s origins date to the 11^th century. Vestiges of 14th century walls still stand. There’s a Romanesque church, a bell tower, a fountain, and meandering stone alleys – all restored. Plus, lovely views of the Luberon hills.

Those hills were alive with a rainbow of fall colors glowing in the strong Provencal sunshine. It was warm – not at all like Christmas. But I am glad I visited this holiday market and discovered Glen Kendall, Calcutta Rescue and inviting Grambois.

info.calcuttarescueprovence@gmail.com

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Tag: Christmas markets

GERMANY’S

Grambois gets a jump on Christmas