Intro to Europe 101

“It’s a blast.” He was enthusiastic, curious, at times in awe, and termed almost everything a “blast.” It was so much fun and gratifying to be with him, a blast for me too.

That’s my nephew, David Koester, who visited me recently, his first time to Europe.

David and Leah
Nephew David and Aunt Leah

“It was an eye-opening experience.  I’ve never experienced another culture before,” David told me during a recent phone conversation. “I’ve been raving about the trip ever since I got back.”

David, 39, is an account executive with Logicalis, an IT consulting firm. He lives with his wife Sabrina and 8-year-old son Jonah in Louisville, Ky.

 His buddy Matt had a business trip to Berlin.  They decided to meet in Switzerland for a few days.  He visited me in southern France prior to the Swiss rendezvous.

We had lunch here before David explored the old chateau in the Vieux Village of Roquebrune Cap Martin

His visit here was short, three days.  We were on the move.  First stop the Vieux Village (old village) of Roquebune Cap Martin. I live in the “new town.”

After an outdoor lunch in the town plaza, David explored, up to the old chateau, then up and down the skinny pedestrian alleys.  Since I am now walking with a cane, I stayed back.  “It’s so cool walking through these alleys, seeing the old architecture,” he remarked.

Old town Roquebrune Cap Martin

A favorite spot in the old village is the viewpoint overlooking Monaco.  Another day, a very rainy day, we ventured to the principality and opted for the hop-on, hop-off bus which gives a good overview of Monaco.  

Monaco

David, who is a financial wizard, informed me that Monaco’s Formula One makes more money than any other sporting event.   “It was cool driving over the starting line,” he said.

Roquebrune Cap Martin is adjacent to Menton, a Riviera town on the border with Italy.   It too has an old town, a maze of twisty alleys, as well as the imposing basilica of Saint Michael.  David visited all, as well as the city’s market, my favorite.  

The old town of Menton
David was impressed with Menton’s market hall. This is my bread stand where we bought some tasty goodies.

We crossed the border for an Italian snack at Grotta.  I love to stop there – Italian ambience, reasonable food and an enticing setting just above the coast.  

Another must is nearby Sainte Agnes, a medieval village classified as “one of the most beautiful villages in France.” Reaching the burg, said to be the highest coastal village in France at an altitude of 760 meters (2,493 feet), is not for the faint of heart. Follow a treacherous, narrow mountain road —  lots of hairpin turns and places where there is room for only one car.  Someone may need to reverse. Fortunately, David was behind the wheel. 

He drove my Suzuki Swift.  I was still recovering from the San Francisco broken wrist (see previous post, “I lost my money in San Francisco”) and could not yet drive.

He found driving in southern France “wild.”  He summed it up: “There are mopeds everywhere.  Everything is very tight.  You’ve got to be on our toes all the time…you need to be aggressive out there.” He did enjoy my humble car.  “I haven’t driven stick shift in ages,” he said. “It was fun.”

The views from Sainte Agnes are worth the trip. David trekked up a steep path to investigate the ruins of a chateau.

A steep path leads to the ruins of a 12th century chateau above Sainte Agnes
A medieval garden and cemetery are part of the chateau site.

Lunch was a treat, a multi course meal at a popular, rustic, local restaurant:  pork pate, followed by ravioli, and a main course of either wild boar stew or rabbit, all topped off with a slice of blueberry pie.  He ordered rabbit.  I went for the wild boar.  We shared.

For David, food in France is “phenomenal, awesome.”  He was impressed with the taste and presentation, and said it was much healthier than food in the U.S. 

The plan was to leave Sainte Agnes and continue up the mountain to Col de la Madonne, a mountain pass my super cyclist friend Bridget had raved about. The route is popular with serious riders on two wheels. 

We had three choices after leaving the village:  a road down to where we had come from, another with a sign to the town of Peille, and a third unmarked. GPS was no help.  We took the road less traveled – and too much adventure awaited.

No one has lived here recently — the only house we saw on our adventure into the hinterlands.

On and on we drove.  Nothing. No signs. Few other cars.  No civilization.  The road deteriorated.  Dirt. Bumps.  Pot holes.  Where were we?    We charged on until we came to a fork with a gate /barrier blocking  the road on the right.  Yet, according to David’s GPS (now working), we should take that road.  He got out and opened the gate.  

I was nervous.  This can’t be right. What if we get stuck?  We are alone in the boondocks.

 But on we went, deeper into nowhere. To my relief, my chauffeur decided to turn back and take the other road. There was little improvement, but it had to lead us out of this isolated back country.

Peille is another remote medieval village tucked in the mountains.

Hope: A sign to Peille, the town we had rejected when leaving Sainte Agnes.  We gleefully took it, and realized we were retracing much of the territory we had just covered. ??  This road was not much better than the others and nightfall was coming.  But, we were en route to civilization. 

Peille is old and picturesque, a cluster of stone buildings below the main road where we parked and then headed downhill to check it out.  Nothing was open except a funky, bar café.  Perfect. We loved the cozy ambience, the local vibe, and the well-earned beer.

Our salvation: A bar that was open.
Downtown Peille: old stone houses, vaulted passageways.

David was good natured about this fiasco.  He was a joy to be with – never complained and was thrilled with all. Mea Culpa.  I will not subject future visitors to the search for the Col de la Madonne. 

David continued to Switzerland where he spent a few days in the Grindelwald-Lucerne area with Matt.  He called the country “the most beautiful place I have ever been to.”  However, he found it very expensive.

The boys in Switzerland. Matt and David.

In an email after returning home, David wrote the following:

“I had such a great trip.  I think about it all the time.  It was so great to see you.  I’m so excited to come back.  I can understand why you made the life decisions you did.  Seeing the world is so much fun.  We are going to plan a family trip to Europe.”

I hope they will visit me.  I can’t wait.  I know it will be a blast.

David, Sabrina and Jonah

ALL PHOTOS ABOVE BY DAVID KOESTER

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MORE PHOTOS BY DAVID BELOW

David followed the coastal Corbusier trail near my apartment. The scenery is spectacular.
We split this veggie entree at a Menton restaurant. David found food here healthier than that in the U.S.
Peille by night
La Turbie, a town near Roquebrune.
Chateau in the old village of Roquebrune Cap Martin
Basilique Saint Michel in Menton.

A Picture is Worth 1,000 Words

Since I have been doing nothing exciting to write about, this will be mainly a photo blog.

The heat and humidity here in southern France have been too much for me.  Fortunately, my apartment building has a TDF (to die for) pool.  I swim and do my pool rehabilitation exercises every morning, then spend the rest of the day in the comfort of my air-conditioned apartment. It gets monotonous.

At 9 a.m. I am often the only one in the pool. Heaven!

Not just the heat, but the crowds also keep me home bound. I live in a vacation paradise.  The beaches are packed.  Finding a parking place is as challenging as finding a contact lens in the sea. A tranquilizer is required to negotiate the traffic.

Everyone is at the beach.

It is in the French DNA to take vacation in July or August, with August being the preferable month.  This applies to all – not just families with children which is understandable.

A bachelor lawyer I know has closed shop for all of August.  Friend Karen bought an apartment in the spring. She is having it renovated, but all work stopped in mid July and will not continue until September. Vacation time.

My physical therapist is “en vacance “ for the entire month. (The French get five weeks of paid vacation per year, plus lots of holidays.). It’s best not to get sick in France in August.   Your doctor will likely be on the golf course or beach somewhere far off.   Your favorite pharmacy, bakery, butcher shop – likely closed until September.  

Fortunately, the “rentree” ( when kids go back to school) is around the corner. Life will return to normal soon.

Following are random photos retrieved from the innards of my computer. Most are from fascinating trips husband Bob and I had the fortune to enjoy. We loved to explore far off lands, learn about different cultures, and meet the locals. It was all fun and enriching.

Before long I hope the beach will be like this.
Sri Lanka hills at sunset
Fort gunnery platform, Nizwa, Oman
Daisies – and bees
Peillon, France. I went there on July 9 to commemorate the 1 year anniversary my beloved Bob’s death. We had been there many, many years ago.
Geraniums in Grimentz, Swizerland
Name this bird. Seen in Sri Lanka.
Muscat, Oman, at daybreak.
Mountain goat in Oman mountains
In the medieval garden at the Chateau of St. Agnes, France
Maldives
Wildlife in Sri Lanka
Memories
Beauty in the canton of Valais, Switzerland
On safari in Rajasthan, India.
Classy mansion in Cap Martin, France.
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat, Oman
Dalmatian coast, Croatia

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Hotel California II

For background, see previous post « Hotel California „

Improvement. Madame Cadre ( MC, big boss) was true to her word when she promised me a « nice surprise » after the obligatory 3-week waiting period at this rundown rehabilitation center. My original room had neither toilet nor shower. The surprise: a « luxurious « room with both. And, I still have access to the broken balcony with the spectacular view.

View of Golfe-Juan on the Mediterranean from the balcony

The physical therapy staff also granted me an upgrade: an electric wheelchair to replace the hand operated one I had been given. It was huge, intimidating, shabby, old – not like the smaller versions most residents had. « It’s very easy. Just like driving a car , » I was told.

Not for me. The monster took off like a missile, reminding me of those bumper cars at amusement parks. I hated them. I frequently got stuck, a perfect target for others to crash into. No one crashed into my wheelchair, but I had three collisions into walls. Major collisions. My broken leg took the hit. I was nervous. I can do this, I told myself, and concentrated on mastering the speed controls. Too late. The powers that be took it away from me. I was delighted.

Hotel California, properly known as Helio Marin, is rehabilitation facility in Vallauris, France, specializing in the treatment of amputees and those with serious, multiple injuries.

After my third surgery for a complicated break of the femur (first repair broke after six months) and a semi-paralyzed arm resulting from a failed reverse shoulder replacement of a broken shoulder, this was said to be the best place for my recovery.

Picnic at Helio Marin with my faithful visitors: Jo, Sir Dickens, Angi and Erika

I soon learned that my injuries were minor compared to others. Many much younger residents are recovering from ski, bicycle, surfboard, car and motorcycle accidents.

Horrendous accidents.

Emmanuel, 40s, crashed his bicycle into a car. He broke his spine, tibia, ankle and hip. „I had six surgeries within 10 days,“ he told me. One surgery lasted seven hours.

Emmanuel

The serious cyclist, who has ridden as many as 250 kilometers in one day, likes to ride the challenging costal mountain terrain in this region. He has been at Helio Marin since December, but is beginning to walk and will go home soon. He looks forward to getting back on his bike.

Aladdin and his signature hat.

Aladdin, 26 , races around in his electric wheelchair as if training for a wheelchair Formula I. He had taken leave from his job at the tech company Amadeus to visit „ 26 countries“ by car. He was celebrating super success. On weekends he worked as a salesman in Monaco for a „ super yacht“ company. (Starting price $15 million). He had made a sale.

While driving in rural Greece, he hit a pig. The airbags inflated. He lost control and slammed into a wall. He broke his spine and spent six weeks in an Athens hospital only able to move his eyes up and down, back and forth, to indicate yes and no.

He remains positive, always smiling, chatting with others. He likes Snickers bars, and offered me one. Another time he presented me with his French fries from a delivery order. A welcome treat. No fries served here. Aladdin is an inspiration.

Tahar

Tahar is a retired gardener originally from Tunisia. He said he is the only amputee here who lost a leg in an accident. The others are victims of diabetes. He lives in Grasse, the perfume capital of France, and was using a rotary tiller to tend the roses for the upscale cosmetics firm, Lancôme. His foot slipped into a hole and his leg got caught in the blades. Like Aladdin, he has a warm and welcoming smile. He was eager to tell me about his various gardening jobs, which he obviously loved. No self-pity, but he did say learning to walk with a prothestic leg is very difficult.

Patrick.

Patrick, 43, broke his spine in a whooper motorcycle accident. I often see him sitting outdoors in the sun after lunch. He told me about his accident and said he was not expected to live. In addition to losing feeling and movement in his legs, an arm is damaged and the accident has affected his voice. He is originally from Iceland, but lives in Menton with his partner and four-year-old daughter. A doctor told him he would not walk again which infuriated him. „How dare he ruin my hopes.“ He intends to seek other opinions.

Gerard, 19, broke both femurs attempting a ski jump. He fell, and the skis landed straight up, tails in the snow. The bindings did not release. Like me, he has had femur surgery and rods have been inserted to stabilize both legs.

Jean Michel, early 40s, was whacked in the neck with his surfboard. He was immobile. „I could have drowned.“ His buddies saved him as well as emergency surgery for a compressed spine. „I was very lucky,“ he said.

Of course there are many older patients like me, victims of falls.

Entertainment in the canteen.

In the late 19th century heliomarine sanitoriums were established to treat tuberculosis patients. They were near the sea to profit from the sun‘s rays and sea air. Those remaining, like Helio Marin in Vallauris, are now rehabilitation facilities.

Terraced terraces at Helio Marin

The stepped concrete structure of Helio Marin was designed by architect Pierre Souzy and completed in 1937. It is unique and had to be considered avant garde almost 100 years go.

Fabulous views from Helio Marin

Unfortunately the building has been sadly neglected. There was talk of tearing it down and building a luxury hotel. The site is spectacular. However, due to its age the building is a protected structure and can only be used for medical purposes.

I had to wonder if that old electric wheelchair they gave me had been rescued from the dusty recesses of the attic. Nevermind, as one on line reviewer wrote:

„In spite of the delapidation, the care and staff are good, and that‘s the most important. „

My favorite nurses, Franco and Regis

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With visitors Ralph and Gayle. They brought me balloons and a rose.

Hotel California

Welcome to the Hotel California, but it’s a hospital, not a hotel. Nonetheless I instantly thought of that Eagles hit song from 1977 when I entered this bizarre place.

Helio Marin in Vallauris, Francé, aka Hotel California in this post

This could be heaven or this could be hell

…And she showed me the way

There were voices down the corridor

Thought I heard them say

…”And I was thinkin to myself

Welcome to the Hotel California

Such a lovely place. Such a lovely place.“

My room: Old, shabby, paint chipped walls, a big hole in the ceiling. Ahh— but the view from the 4th floor balcony is splendid with the Mediterranean Golfe-Juan in one direction, and the Bay of Cannes in the other. “A postcard view,” as a visitor said.

I am here for therapy following my third femur surgery since my great fall last June (see a previous post, My Sorry Story). Helio Marin, this facility, has a sterling reputation as a rehabilitation center, although as I looked around that seemed hard to fanthom. I was seduced by the view and figured I could tolerate the depressing room — until I pulled back the plastic curtain and glanced into the minuscule bathroom. NO TOILET.

View from my balcony. Golfe-Juan

I completely freaked out. “ There is no toilet in the bathroom,“ I shouted to the aide who had led me to my new home. That is true, she said, but there is a toilet down the hall. What? This is 2024 and the rooms do not have toilets. I was incredulous, thinking back to student days traveling with “Europe on $5 day.” That was then — some 60 years ago. I am old, too old for down-the-hall bathroom treks.

“I cannot stay here.“ I was upset, angry, bewildered. “ I will call the „Cadre“ (big boss),“ the aide said. Madame Cadre (MC) appeared. Medium length, straight dark red hair. Glasses. Stern demeanor. No welcome smile, but a piercing stare meant to instill fear.

I was adamant. I insisted that I needed a room with a toilet, that I could not make the trips down the hall. “Why not? You can walk.“

An attelle supports my broken femur.

“Lady, I am in a wheelchair. I can’t walk. That’s why I am here.”

She stated that this was the only room available. Take it or leave it, but she could put me on the waiting list for a better room with toilet.

I was frantic. I called the hospital where I had the recent surgery. They had arranged for me to come here. Please find me a room somewhere else, I pleaded. The woman in social services insisted this was the best place for my recuperation. Just be patient. You will get a better room, she said. The other facility she had recommended had no rooms.

I was stuck. It was either stay here or go home. I knew I was in no condition to go home and take care of myself.

I did not unpack, hoping I would have a better room in a few days. I gazed into the bathroom one more time. No shower either. That too is down the hall. Nothing to do but retreat to the balcony and let the view soothe my troubled soul.

Bay of Cannes

Not for long. MC returned. “What are you doing out there? It’s dangerous, forbidden,“ she screamed. „Get in here.“ I dutifully wheeled myself back inside. This was too much, like a bad dream.

I later learned the balcony, a wide structure with the rooms opening onto it, is like everything here: Old. It is wooden, rotting and in danger of collapse. You can tread lightly at your own risk, but only on the initial portion. The area near near the edge is off limits. When MC departed, I disobeyed and ventured to the edge, the best place for photos. I was not the only one.

The next day I wanted to take a shower and wash my hair, yet there was a problem. I had neither towel nor wash cloth. You are expected to bring your own. How was I to know? During previous hospital experiences, they had been provided. Someone scrounged up a towel for me. I asked an aide if I could have a disposable wash cloth. I know they come in packages of 100. Hospitals use them.

„I have to ask the Cadre“ he replied. Madame’s answer: NO! I was not entitled to a disposable wash cloth. I obviously had not endeared myself to MC. I would be punished.

Originally a plaque supported my broken femur. It too broke and has been replaced by a rod.

According to the Helio Marin welcome brochure, for a fee you can have laundry service.  I asked my friendly morning nurse team about it.  They only knew of a washing machine and dryer for the use of patients.  But, they would ask the Cadre.  I told them not to bother, that she did not like me. 

“Don’t worry.  She does not like anyone.”

Bottom line.  Brochure lied.  There is no laundry service. The washer and dryer only work with payment by credit card.  When I checked in, I had been advised to leave valuables (cash, jewelry, credit cards ) with the office for safe keeping.  I did.  

Now I had to go back and sign out a credit card to do my laundry.  What about detergent?

You can buy it at “Snack”, I was told. Wrong. Snack has no detergent for sale. My dirty clothes had to wait for my friend Karen to bring me detergent.

Continue reading “Hotel California”

My Sorry Story

Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall.
Humpty Dumpty had a great fall.
All the king’s horses and all the King’s men
Could not put Humpty together again.

Like Humpty Dumpty, Leah (me) had a great fall. I was luckier than the egg. Dr. Chole, 32, an orthopedic surgeon in Nice, put me back together. 

After this whopper of a crash, she had multiple pieces to repair.  I suffered an open break of the femur.  The bone on my right leg broke in several places above a knee prothesis.  And, I broke and dislocated my left shoulder.  During my 72-day hospital stay, I fell again and fractured the sacrum and pelvis.  

It was challenging enough to cope with the damage and pain, but there was more grief to follow. About a month after my fall, my precious husband Bob died.  He had been suffering from Alzheimer and living in a care home following his great fall last December. (see previous post, “Christmas without the Merry”)

My last “happy” picture of Bob. Minutes later he fell at the Nice Christmas market. It was all down hill after that.

I visited daily until disaster hit.  He became very ill due to an infection.  I was bedridden, immobile in a hospital.  No way to visit.  I was devastated, heartbroken.  I needed, wanted to be with him. (More about Bob in my next post.)

Here’s the sorry story of my great fall:   On June 7, as usual I was stressed and in a rush. I unloaded grocery bags near the elevator in the building basement, parked the car, and came back to proceed to the apartment. My mind and eyes were somewhere else. I tripped and fell over the bags, flying into a wall.  I tried to get up. Impossible. I panicked, screamed, yelled for help.  Finally, a resident came and called an ambulance.

First step:  Give that woman drugs.  They did, and I don’t remember anything after that until Dr. Chole in the Pasteur hospital emergency room explained my injuries and said she would operate.

I was told by a neighbor that the ambulance crew spent more than an hour before moving me.  They called for a portable X-ray machine to make sure I had not broken my back.  Apparently there was a lot of blood from the open break.

All unbeknownst to me. I woke up in the recovery room.  What had I done? My leg, and arm and shoulder were enclosed in some type of heavy-duty armor. I could barely move.

For the next two- and one-half weeks I was bedridden at the hospital, but not without more trauma.    Three days after the orthopedic surgery I suffered an intestinal occlusion.  This meant another operation.  Fortunately a very skilled surgeon performed laparoscopy.   Unfortunately, during that surgery the repaired shoulder was moved which undid the repair work.  I would need another shoulder surgery. 

This can’t be real.  A tsunami of tragedy and bad luck. If I hadn’t been taking strong pain killers (opioids), I might have cracked.

A week later, surgery #3. This time Dr. Chole performed a reverse shoulder replacement.

My right leg.

.

I had tubes in my arms, one in my nose, another in my bladder—all very unpleasant.  As I lay there day after day, I thought about Bob who has suffered, and at that time was still suffering, tremendously.  I thought about soldiers, their bodies ripped apart by war.  How many surgeries did they endure?  Would they ever be normal?… I can do this. 

Comic relief lightened the load at times. Julie, a bright, bouncy young aide sang along with Tina Turner bellowing from her phone as she worked. She liked to practice her English.

Julie sang along with Tina Turner.

One morning as she was giving me a sponge bath, she handed me a wash cloth with the command, “Please refresh your pussy.” Did she say what I think she said? Plenty of laughs instantly chased away the blues. I explained and gave a quick English lesson. 

The professor doctor, the intestinal surgeon who spoke good English, arrived most mornings with his entourage of diligent students. I had repeatedly asked him to remove the nasty tube in my nose.    “You need to poop and fart first,” he replied.  I laughed, not expecting a distinguished professor to use such terms. We then had a discussion on more acceptable terminology for these bodily functions.

An aide treats my incision, 25 cm or 10 inches long held together by 41 staples.

I left Pasteur, the hospital in Nice about 50  minutes from my apartment, and moved to a rehabilitation hospital in Menton, not far from Cap Martin where I live.

There was not much rehab during the first few weeks. I was basically still immobile. With relief and joy, after too many weeks I shed those dreadful cast- like contraptions.

With my improvement came daily therapy sessions.  Therapy also included weekly meetings with a psychometrician, and an occasional session with a psychologist. 

The therapy room is spacious, bright and filled  with all sorts of equipment. A large staff of qualified therapists tend to patients who practice walking on tracks with parallel bars, work out on exercise bikes, follow sessions of chair exercises and more.  Eventually I was able to go to the therapy pool for water exercise, my favorite.

A happy day. I could start to walk.

Many patients are old like me,  recovering from falls.  But there are also young, some learning to walk on artificial limbs. This puts it all in perspective. 

Steve and Yoshie took me in my wheel chair to the new port in nearby Ventimiglia,Italy.

I enjoyed the therapy, but definitely suffered from cabin fever.  Thanks to my brother Steve and his wife Yoshie, I escaped the hospital on August 18.  They arrived from Boulder to help and take care of me for a month. 

I sent them on errands They were a team, Steve driving my 4 speed Suzuki and Yoshie navigating. Steve was not thrilled with the driving in these parts: lots of narrow, one way streets; a multitude of tourists, and even more motorcycles and scooters. Not for the faint of heart.

I never would have survived without them.  We ordered supplies from Amazon to create a handicap friendly environment in my apartment.  Steve was skilled in assembling all.  Yoshie was my nurse extraordinaire.

The homecoming welcome committee. My “girls” Simba and Oprah joined me in bed on my first night home.

It’s wonderful to be back in my apartment. I enjoy the company of my two cats, a stupendous view of the sea and mountains — and freedom. I return to the rehab center three afternoons per week for several hours of different types of therapy. 

Recovery is slow, too slow for me. I need to drive.  I want to walk normally.  I can walk with my hiking poles, but only for very, very short distances.  Too painful after that.  My left arm only moves so far, not far enough to maneuver a steering wheel. 

Home sweet home. Simba and Steve bonded.

In desperation I went to my general practitioner.  I complained about the lack of speedier progress.  He gave me a quizzical look.

“You need a year.”  

There is a moral to this sorry story.  Move slowly.  Be alert. Watch where you walk. Manage stress.. Don’t end up like me – or worse, Humpty Dumpty.

.(Most all of my care — surgeries, medications and x-rays, hospital stays, therapy, plus transportation  by ambulance to and from the rehab center three times per week, is paid for by the French social security system.  As a resident of France, I am entitled to these benefits.  I also have a supplemental insurance which covers the portion not covered by the state.

More outings now that I can walk with poles, even if only a few meters. Here with friend Angie.

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