Animals – Tales and Travel

ON SAFARI

Elephants, giraffes, zebra, kudos, wildebeest, a hyena — I saw them all on my drive from the airport in Skukuza, South Africa, to the Idube safari lodge 3 1/2 hours away. I was excited and decided this was a good omen meaning lots more to come. I was right.

The highlight on the drive was a mother hyena with two tiny, lively puppies. Driver Cheryl said they were just a few days old, if that. Mom was worn out, sleeping soundly, not disturbed by one of her offspring who was chewing on her ear.

I spent the next two days at the Idube lodge and the following two days at the Motswari Game lodge. Both are vast private game reserves in Greater Kruger, an area with unfenced boundaries outside but adjacent to the Kruger National Park.

Game drives begin in the wee hours, about 6 a.m. It was winter in South Africa, coal black and cold, freezing, at that hour. Hot water bottles and blankets are provided, but still frosty until the sun pops up. At 9 we returned to the lodge for a hearty breakfast, setting out again about 3 p.m. for an afternoon drive.

A tracker sits on a special elevated seat in the front of the safari vehicle, his eagle and trained eyes searching for tracks, movement, listening for sounds, any sign of animal life. The driver/field guide is an encyclopedia of info, as well as a fearless driver, charging off road at Formula 1 speed to reach a site before the animal moves on. Duck under branches, bounce over bumps and ruts, hold onto your seat — more thrills than an amusement park ride.

An abrupt halt. There — right in front of us — is the Lion King, gnawing on a bloody piece of carcass. A thrilling, awesome, incredible sight. You almost need to pinch yourself to be sure it’s real.

As in this instance, it is astonishing how close the vehicles get to the animals which completely ignore the visitors. They are accustomed to human intruders and definitely not camera shy. Even with a phone camera you can get decent photos (I used an I-phone 16 pro). For perfection, however, serious gear is best.

Following are photos of my “sightings.” Since I am a “childless cat lady” who adores cats, large and small, I will devote a separate post to cats. I saw many, all magnificent. Watch this space.

No shortage of elephants on the game drives: majestic males, families, youngsters. These mammoth creatures can live to be 60 to 80 years old. If they manage to survive that long, they die of starvation as their teeth wear out, making it impossible to chew food. The elephant gestation period is 22 months and “babies” nurse for three to four years. Elephants can eat for up to 18 hours per day.

Rhinos, with and without horns. The horns are treasured in many Asian countries for medicinal properties, although there is no scientific evidence that the horns have medicinal value. In some countries, namely Vietnam, the horns are a luxury item and status symbol.

Hence, poachers kill for the valuable horns. In the Idube reserve, rhinos are de-horned at the age of two to dissuade the poachers. Not so in the Timbavati private reserve where the Motswari lodge is located.

There guide Landon told us that dehorned rhinos are defenseless against predators and in territorial disputes with other rhinos. Poachers may still kill them to avoid tracking the same rhino again. And, the dehorning procedure must be repeated every 12-24 months, expensive and labor intensive. It can also alter natural behavior, leading to social disruption. Rhinos in Timbavati keep their horns.

The buffalo, one of Africa’s most dangerous animals, is one of the Big Five of African wildlife (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and Cape or African buffalo). We were lucky and saw not just a few of these aggressive beasts, but hundreds crossing a lake.

We never spotted a hippo out of the water, but we did see lots of hippo heads up for air in various lakes. Hippos can stay under water for six to seven minutes, we learned, and they eat grass not meat.

Ian, the guide in Idube, told us the hippo is the number two killer in South Africa, following malaria, number one. Number three is the buffalo. Landon at Motswari disagreed on number two. He said number two is the crocodile, not the hippo which is number three. Both put malaria as the number one killer.

An African safari is a thrilling, rewarding, unforgettable experience. In addition to being awed by the wildlife, I was intrigued with the country and its citizens. I talked to South Africans about their languages, tribal customs, problems in the country and life since the official end of apartheid in 1994. A look beyond safari in the next post.

Below, more photos.

Another hyena mom with puppies, one with his neck in her mouth. Guide Landon said the adorable hyena puppies are his favorite baby animal.

Wild dog puppies. The guide said two nearby packs were having a territorial dispute. The fight did not interest the playful puppies, but our vehicle did.

These fellows, nyala and a wildebeest, hung out in the front yard of my room at Idube. All were very tame, including the wildebeest. I thought I could try to pet him, but suddenly I heard screams. I was warned that he might decide I was not so friendly and turn those horns on me. I retreated.

This hornbill joined us for breakfast, hoping for treats.

Impalas are more numerous than other African antelopes.

I booked my African adventure, South Africa (Kruger) and Madagascar, with Worldwide Quest, http://www.worldwidequest.com

If not a Tales and Travel follower, please sign up here. Trust me. It’s safe. Your address is not shared. Don’t miss out. More about my travels in future posts: South Africa beyond safari, Big cats, the mysteries and marvels of Madagascar.

No new recipe this time. But, it’s not too late to take advantage of those summer tomatoes and try this delicious Savory Tomato Tarte Tatin. For more recipes, click here.

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Trusted House Sitters

I call her the “cat whisperer.” Pet sitter Bridget rescued, rehabilitated, my two precious felines, Simba and Oprah. And, she saved me.

I had a serious accident requiring multiple surgeries, a long hospital stay then two months at a rehab facility in southern France where I live. I was transported to the hospital asap with no way to arrange care for my beloved kitties.

My remarkable apartment gardien and friends stopped by to refill the food bowl and empty the litter box. Simba and Oprah were both very shy and distrustful of strangers. They stayed hidden and had no human contact for a month.

Trusted House Sitters (THS), a noted pet sitting organization, came to the rescue. I am a member of THS. So is Bridget, the phenomenal sitter who worked a miracle with my traumatized, petrified cats. Both are long-haired rescue cats. Their fur was seriously matted. With love and patience, Bridget coaxed them out of hiding. She brushed them, petted them, showered them with TLC. By the time I came home, they were back to normal.

Bridget has become a friend, as have several trusted sitters. Thanks to THS, I can take off on trips knowing my cats (Now only cat Simba. Oprah succumbed to cancer last year) are safe and happy.

Meet some of my fabulous trusted sitters:

Trusted sitter **Bridge**t has found that pets, like Milo, are generally very happy with their sitters.

Bridget, raised on a farm in New Zealand, has been a sitter for many years. Her animal charges in New Zealand, where she lives six months each year, often include pigs, sheep, horses, cows, and chickens, in addition to cats and dogs.

“I miss having animals myself,” she says. “I love having the company of beautiful animals… and I love providing security, giving people peace of mind, helping them to enjoy their trip and come back to a clean house. I like to help make a difference.”

**Bridget** with pooch Fred in New Zealand where she pet sits during our winter months.

She does make a difference, and not just for the pet owners. “People think their animals are pining away for them, meanwhile they are generally sitting on my knee, purring away or sleeping in bed with me…. It’s so much better than a kennel or cattery which are a shock and high stress for pets.”

**Erika** with my Simba who loves tummy rubs.

Erika, a sitter from Switzerland, spent several months with Simba after I had to have more surgery and return to a rehab facility for three months. Like Bridget, she has many years of pet sitting experience and sterling reviews on the THS site. And, like some other sitters, she has no fixed home. She is in demand, and can usually move from one sit to another. Many of her “clients” have invited her to come back and stay between sits if she is in need of a “home.”

“I love animals. I like to travel and see new places,” she says. “People are very friendly. Many are very thankful that I was there and watched the pets, the plants and the house.” Erika has even had sits minus pets, just plants and a house to care for.

Clarissa and son Pierre from Geneva, Switzerland, were my most recent sitters when I went off to Paris. Clarissa, who has three cats of her own, is a devoted, zealous cat lover.

She has used THS for her own cats when she traveled. One sitter, she recalls, left her home in better condition than she had left it. I returned to find my apartment in tip top shape, plus a magnificent bouquet of roses to welcome me home.

Like many sitters, Clarissa can work remotely and enjoy sits in distant places. Son Pierre, when not in school, joins her. Another son lives at home and cares for her kitties when she is off on a sit.

Clarissa only sits for cats. “I am not comfortable with dogs,” she says. “I have met such nice people…I would never put my cats in a shelter.” She is happy to help others travel and avoid upsetting their cats.

Pumpkin, the pet pig. He liked to cuddle between Rose and Sebastien on the couch.

Rose and husband Sebastien from Colorado are remote workers who have sat, not just for cats and dogs, but also a parrot, rabbits, goats, horses, chickens, even a python and a pet pig. The snake, she recalled, had recently eaten so they did not need to worry about him. But Pumpkin the pig, a 200-pound beast, liked to crawl up on the couch and cuddle with them. “He loved bananas,” she said.

Rose and Sebastien, like many sitters, have repeat customers. This Doberman is a favorite, “the meltiest Doberman,” a pet they often sit for in Colorado.

Like most sitters, Rose and Sebastien began with local sits “to get a feel for it.” And, like Bridget, they prefer to have a Facetime call with pet owners before committing to a sit. “You have to think of your own requirements and what you are comfortable with.”

“It’s reciprocal. It’s an exchange,” Rose says. “Both get something out of it. It’s beyond vacation travel. It’s rewarding.”

Rose and Sebastien have also cared for Rex bunnies

Magdalene and Brian live in Krakow, Poland. She is Polish. He is Canadian. They too are remote workers and have had pet sits in numerous countries. Magdalene is “passionate about animals” but with their lifestyle does not think it’s fair to have pets of their own. “I like this experience. It feels like home with a pet.”

She previously worked as a nurse and remembers a sit when that experience saved a dog. The owners had not told her the dog was a diabetic. He got very sick, but she knew what to do.

A few years ago, I was able to convince my brother Steve and his wife Yoshie to try THS. Their cat Zippy is difficult, only likes them. Yoshie was very reluctant to have a stranger stay in their home in Boulder.

They had been paying $40 per night to board Zippy in a kennel, but it was stressful for them, as well as Zippy. He sensed that they were leaving, would hide, pee in the cage. “I was exhausted,” said Yoshie. Zippy cried at night for several days after their return. THS has replaced the kennel and all are happy.

Trusted House Sitters was founded in the UK in 2010 and now has 230,000 members. It operates in 180 countries. Pet owners pay a fee to join, from $129 per year, fill out the required forms detailing their pets and required care, as well as information about themselves. When they plan a trip, they post an announcement on the site with dates of travel. Owners do not pay sitters who pay their own transportation to the pet owner’s home.

A sitter entertained Filippo (now in cat. heaven) with videos.

Sitters pay approximately $250 for a year’s membership. To join, they fill out required forms. THS verifies their ID and contact info. Once accepted as a trusted sitter, they see the announcements of those needing sitters, and then apply to those that interest them.

Both sitters and pet owners are reviewed by the prospective parties. The reviews are published on the site. You can read what others have to say about their experiences.

If you choose to sign up with THS, please mention me, Leah Larkin, as a referral. I get brownie points.

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It’s time for asparagus. See below for link to a recipe for this seasonal favorite.

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TODAY’S TASTE – Asparagus with Parmesan Butter

Click below photo for recipe. For more recipes, click here.

A Picture is Worth 1,000 Words

Since I have been doing nothing exciting to write about, this will be mainly a photo blog.

The heat and humidity here in southern France have been too much for me. Fortunately, my apartment building has a TDF (to die for) pool. I swim and do my pool rehabilitation exercises every morning, then spend the rest of the day in the comfort of my air-conditioned apartment. It gets monotonous.

At 9 a.m. I am often the only one in the pool. Heaven!

Not just the heat, but the crowds also keep me home bound. I live in a vacation paradise. The beaches are packed. Finding a parking place is as challenging as finding a contact lens in the sea. A tranquilizer is required to negotiate the traffic.

It is in the French DNA to take vacation in July or August, with August being the preferable month. This applies to all – not just families with children which is understandable.

A bachelor lawyer I know has closed shop for all of August. Friend Karen bought an apartment in the spring. She is having it renovated, but all work stopped in mid July and will not continue until September. Vacation time.

My physical therapist is “en vacance “ for the entire month. (The French get five weeks of paid vacation per year, plus lots of holidays.). It’s best not to get sick in France in August. Your doctor will likely be on the golf course or beach somewhere far off. Your favorite pharmacy, bakery, butcher shop – likely closed until September.

Fortunately, the “rentree” ( when kids go back to school) is around the corner. Life will return to normal soon.

Following are random photos retrieved from the innards of my computer. Most are from fascinating trips husband Bob and I had the fortune to enjoy. We loved to explore far off lands, learn about different cultures, and meet the locals. It was all fun and enriching.

Before long I hope the beach will be like this.

Peillon, France. I went there on July 9 to commemorate the 1 year anniversary my beloved Bob’s death. We had been there many, many years ago.

In the medieval garden at the Chateau of St. Agnes, France

Beauty in the canton of Valais, Switzerland

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat, Oman

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My Kind of Hotel

It was the perfect place for R&R. A small hotel (11 rooms). Splendid views of mountains and a lake. A pool amidst greenery and blossoms. A comfortable room, nice staff, good breakfast – and a menagerie of sorts. Plus, and most important, tranquility.

**The view from Suites du Lac, Lake Bourget and mountain**s.

I loved it all. For my recent “cure” at Aix les Bains in eastern France, I booked two weeks at Suites du Lac, a hotel outside of the town. I traveled to Aix by train. On the down side, the hotel was not convenient to the spa center without a car. I took a taxi then bus to reach the spa for my treatments each day.

Never mind. I had time, enjoyed conversing with my regular taxi driver Eric, as well as bus passengers.

During my second day at the hotel, I heard peculiar sounds while lounging on my balcony. Maa… Maa A goat? Clucking. Crackling. Chickens? No way. I was not on a farm nor in the country. Perhaps too much spa water had seeped into my brain. Later I noticed guests looking over a railing on the terrace at the end of the property. I must investigate.

Aha. Below at a lower level there they were: The creatures responsible for the sounds. Two goats and a bevy of chickens. I was fascinated. The chickens were beauties, all different and exotic. The goats were small and cute. I took photos.

Goats Nora, female, and male, Hamza, residents at Suites du Lac.

The Suites du Lac was built in 2007 by partners Jose and Emanuel. They share responsibilities for the hotel management. Emanuel is in charge of administration and everything indoors. Jose takes care of the animals and the grounds.

**Jose knows his chickens and they know him.**

I learned lots about chickens from Jose who is an animal lover and passionate about poultry. He had chickens as a child, he explained, and now likes different races. His flock consists of 20 different breeds. He knows the characteristics of each. “This one is South American. That one lays white eggs like American chickens…” European chickens lay marron-colored eggs.

The life span of commercial chickens is just 1 ½ years due to their diet, he told me. But his special fowl can reach the age of 10, unless they fall victim to a fox. Several years ago, he lost 20 birds to a fox. “A fox kills anything that moves,” he said. The fox ate only one of the chickens it had killed. Jose’s chicken/goat pen is fenced, but a fox can jump the fence. He has constructed an enclosure under the terrace with an automatic door that closes at 10 pm. Every evening he goes out to rescue the chickens which have chosen a tree instead of the enclosed hen house for safety. They fly up and nestle into the branches to hide out.

**At night, some chickens fly up into the branches to hide f**or safety.

I was surprised to see how easily he captured the chickens – no resistance. “They know me,” he said.

He has only hens which lay about 20 eggs per day. He did have a rooster, but neighbors complained about the too early wake-up call.

Two 16-year-old miniature Pinschers and a cat also live at Suites du Lac. And, for a brief period of time during my stay, a young injured pigeon. Jose rescued it from a bakery where it cowered in a corner. After a few days of TLC, he released it.

Since I too am an animal lover, the animals were a bonus for me.

Unfortunately, it was hot, very hot during my June stay in Aix-les-Bains. Temperatures were in the upper 90s F every day. The town tourist office offers a variety of interesting walking tours, but there was no way I could enjoy a walking tour in that heat. I hung out at the hotel pool every afternoon after my treatments. Even that was hot, but I swam my laps and took shelter under an umbrella. I read. I napped. I relaxed. I was alone. No responsibilities. It was bliss.

When I needed a stretch, I walked over to look down at the critters. The chickens huddled under oleander branches to escape the sun. The goats found shade along the periphery of the enclosure.

**Relaxation at Suites du Lac is very therapeutic**.

The ambience at dusk when everyone had left the pool was especially soothing. I watched the sky change colors and mountain silhouettes grow darker. It was all so quiet, peaceful and beautiful.

Suites du Lac does not have a regular restaurant offering full meals. After my treatments I usually stopped in town and had lunch at a restaurant. I tried many and savored some delicious meals. In the evening I often joined other guests on the terrace and ordered one of the hotel’s offerings: Omelets, pizza, salads.

I had some tasty lunches in Aix les Bains, including above, a French version of Surf and Turf: Salmon and Chicken smothered in a lobster sauce

Unfortunately my spa treatments did not do much for my bodily ailments. However, Suites du Lac therapy was the best for the spirit.

Les Suites du Lac: www.lessuitesdulac.fr

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Coming soon: The mighty Dolomites.

Cat’s Meow in Monaco

They were not impressed, excited, nor interested. Stretched out in their large cages, they did what cats do best: Sleep. The 145 cats entered in the first international cat show of Monaco were quite content to catnap through their two days of glory. That’s how cats spend some 15 hours per day, even as many as 20 hours – snoozing. No need to let a cat show interrupt your beauty slumber.

When it was their turn to be in the spotlight, on the stage to be examined from tail to ears, they were tolerant, seemingly bored. No doubt many of these champions and would-be champions had been down this road before.

Such is the life of fancy cats. I love cats. I have three, but mine are your basic alley-cat variety – all rescues. Nonetheless when I learned of the cat show in nearby Monaco, I convinced hubby (not as enamored of felines as I am) to join me to check out the cats.

Enormous cats. Hairless cats. Long-haired cats. Cats of all colors. Thirty-nine different breeds to admire. I had no idea there were so many kinds of kitties, but I learned that The International Cat Association (TICA) recognizes 71 standardized breeds.

The favorite, most popular breed is the Maine Coon. These cats are big – huge. I was smitten with Pegase de Nikko Coon, a big boy who weighs in at 10 kilos (22 pounds). His proud owner, Christiane Phily, touted that he was still growing. His grandfather weighed 14 kilos (30 pounds), she told me. She has 20 of these giant felines known for their pleasant personality. “They are very impressive. They look wild, but they have an adorable character,” she said. Her starting price for a Maine Coon, about 1,000 euros ($1,170).

Years ago, when seeking a replacement for my beloved Buddy, a large and affectionate black cat, I decided after all my years of owning rescue cats, I was entitled to upgrade to a genuine pedigreed pet. I wanted a Maine Coon. Husband Bob, who is more than indulgent of my passion for cats, agreed to drive to a breeder some 3 hours away. I had wanted a male, but there was only one young male for sale. He was pretty, but he cowered in the back of the cage, not exhibiting the extrovert personality of the breed. Price tag was 600 euros.

I thought long and hard. I pictured all those pitiful, homeless cats in shelters. I could rescue one for a small donation. Did I really want to spend 600 euros on a cat? This one did not convince me. We drove home catless. The next day I went to the local shelter and came home with not one, but two tiny kittens – my girls Simba and Oprah. Sisters (twins), they almost look like mini Maine Coons.

No pedigree, but adorable and cute: Kittens Simba and Oprah.

In addition to cats coming from all over France for a chance at fame, the cat show included exhibits of haute gamme cat food, “adapted to the carnivorous diet of cats” (I came home with some free samples), cat toys, trees, beds. One exhibitor offered information on animal communication by telepathy. She claims to communicate with pets and transmit their messages to owners. She also offers courses in “animal communication and magnetism.” If you wanted a portrait of your cat, another offered animal aquarelles.

I had hoped to take some quality cat photos, but this was beyond my skills. The viewing wall of the cat cages was a sheet of reflective vinyl. The lighting was tricky. The backgrounds were dreadful. When not sleeping (boring photos), the cats were in motion.