Tag: news

Madagascar’s New Leader: Hope Amid Challenges

Will the new president of this island nation, the fifth poorest country in the world, tackle the immense problems engulfing the country? Chronic water and electricity shortages, corruption, poverty, crime, lack of educational and job opportunities…

Protests in Antananarivo

 Young protesters, Gen Z Madagascar, recently took to the streets by the thousands, demanding action.  After weeks of mayhem, the military stepped in, backed the protesters, and toppled the government. Former president Andry Rajoelina had been impeached and fled the country.  The constitutional court declared Col Michael Randrianirina as the new ruler.

Antananarivo traffic

I visited Madagascar last summer. The poverty is overwhelming.  The chaos and traffic congestion in Antananarivo, the capital city, are mind boggling. Petty crime (pickpocketing) is pervasive. I was cautioned not to walk alone in the city. I asked a guide to take me to the main city market.  He refused.  It would be too risky.

Infamous cable car

John Delmas, my guide, pointed out a glaring symbol of corruption, a cable car crossing the city.  The goal is to whisk people across town and avoid the stifling traffic. Citizens, who suffer water and electricity shortages, felt the money would be better spent to improve basic needs.  Nonetheless a French company installed the cable car to the cost of some 150 million euros.  It now stands still. Protestors destroyed the boarding stations.

I learned a lot about fish from these friendly locals in a coastal village where sardines are drying.

I spent little time in frantic Antananarivo. Most of my visit was  filled with enriching and fun experiences in the area around Nosy Be,  a popular tourist destination:  scuba diving, swimming and snorkeling with giant turtles, visiting a lovely island, a fishing village, a sacred tree, a food market, a handicrafts market, a lemur park.  I had interesting and educational conversations with guides and jovial locals.  More about all in future posts.

Pool at Nosy Be resort hotel.

I enjoyed Madagascar.  There is tremendous potential for growth, development, tourism.  Will that blossom with the new government, or yet again be set back by those in power who think only of their pocketbooks?

Madagascar has had a history of coups and crises since gaining independence from France in 1960.  Ravi Matadeen, a British citizen who has lived and worked in Madagascar for 13 years, says he is worried about the future. “It looks very bleak.”  He mentioned people leaving the country to find work abroad.  “People with degrees are going to Mauritius to work in factories,” he noted. “There is a mass exodus of talent.” 

Overwhelming poverty in Madagascar

Matadeeen is in the travel business which has been decimated with the recent events.  “All bookings have been canceled.  This has had a huge effect on Madagascar.  Things are really bad.” 

Ravi Matadeen
Ravi rents this made-in-Madagascar vehicle for self-drive trips.

His friend, my guide John, a Malagasy who has his own tour company in Antananarivo, has also lost clients. Yet he is a bit more hopeful about the future.

“Now we have a transitional government, and there’s a bit of hope that things might get better,” John said. “But people are tired of corrupt politicians who only look out for themselves. We really need honest leaders who can bring real change. I truly hope things will start improving from now on.”  

Guide Emanuel let, and John on the right

Matadeen’s wife, Kasia, who is Polish and works with an NGO which provides financial support to poor families for children’s education, also sees a glimmer of hope. “Maybe it will be different this time since it came from people on the streets.  The problem is corruption.  Those in power don’t care about the people.”

Gen Z protester Loic Coltran talked about corruption, yet he  is very hopeful. “The young have woken up.  We’ve had enough,” he said.  “Not to have the right to water, electricity and energy in 2025… it’s not possible.  We have been oppressed.” 

Gen Z protester Loic Coltran
Protests in Paris in support of Madagascar Gen Z. “Madagascar is so rich (minerals etc) but so poor,” signs point out.

 He says Gen Z leaders have spoken to the new president and his team.  “We can solve these problems.  We believe. We need change.” 

Coltran, who works for an indigenous agricultural enterprise,  pointed out the country’s agricultural potential. “We have lots of rivers, plains, land for cultivation.  But now there are no tractors, no irrigation, roads are not built. He mentioned Madagascar’s natural resources:  gold, oil, gas, minerals…  “Now only 1% is for the people, 99% is for foreign companies,” he said.  “Here nothing works.  It’s all corrupt.”

Open air beauty salon

I was reminded of comments I heard during my brief visit to South Africa prior to visiting Madagascar.  Corruption and crime are rampant there too.  I was shocked with a remark from a black South African.  “All of Africa’s leaders are corrupt,” he said.  His hope for change lies with the young.  
Let’s hope Madagascar’s Gen Z can spur positive change in this beautiful, fascinating country.

Nosy Be, Madagascar

Photos of Antananarivo by John Delmas. Thank you John. And thank you for your outstanding guide services. You taught me so much about Madagascar. https://www.mada-discovery-travels.com

Ravi Matadeen, Self Drive Madagascar, http://www.selfdrivemadagascar.com

NGO helping finance education of children: http://www.childrenofmadagscar.com

I booked my African adventure, South Africa (Kruger) and Madagascar, with Worldwide Quest, http://www.worldwidequest.com

Malagasy are not photo shy.

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More photos below, plus comments block. Please send your thoughts.

The children are irrestible.When vehicles are stopped in traffic, they often come to the window, pleading for a handout. How can you resist?
All smiles with this group at a traffic stop.
Madagascar is home to 112 species of lemur, all endangered.
…And 100 species of chameleons
Power shopping, bargains galore, at handicrafts markets.

7 responses to “Madagascar’s New Leader: Hope Amid Challenges”

  1. tsaidel

    Hi Leah,

    I tried to leave a comment but not sure it worked. Please let me know. Do you need to be signed in to leave a comment?

    Thanks….Love your posts …. Tobi (Steve and Yoshie’s friend)

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply
    1. leahlarkin

      Thanks Tobi. Got your comment,

      Like

      Reply
  2. tsaidel

    Leah – your writing style and beautiful expressive photography make reading about the world’s troubles less painful. I have spent time in Madagascar trying to get work done from inside the tangle. I know it’s corrupt. The young people’s revolution and relative containment of violence is a good think. Keep the posts coming!

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply
    1. leahlarkin

      I am encouraged and hopeful by Gen Z actions, not just in Mada. Time to boot out corrupt politicians. Madagascar has so much potential. Its citizens deserve better.

      Like

      Reply
  3. lynnecrytseryahoofr

    Thank you for putting all of the recent events into perspective as well as interviewing so many locals. Your post is really insightful and timely. And the photos are luscious!

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply
  4. John W James

    I’m an American in Mada for about 12 years. This blog is spot on, thanks.
    Most African countries were left with dysfunctional governments after colonizers were forced out of power. However, the colonizing forces retained control of many resources and land. They have been bleeding Africa dry for many decades while corrupting the governments. It is time for Africans to change their governments to work for the people, not only for the powerful.
    I’m pleased to see how peaceful and legal the change has been in Mada. Hoping the focus on an honest transparent government can be maintained.

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply
  5. Steve koester

    “Madagascar’s natural resources: gold, oil, gas, minerals…now only 1% is for the people, 99% is for the foreign companies .” Encouraging corruption ensures the foreign corporations that their ability to extract the country’s wealth is secure – a post colonial legacy throughout the global south. Our current president is showing how this model works in the US as well

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

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I left my $ in San Francisco

Photo by Pixabay

It is an expensive, very expensive city.  Having lived in Europe for so many years, I was shocked.  I assumed that nothing – with the exception of Switzerland — could be more expensive than the French Riviera where I now live.

San Francisco proved me wrong. Following are some costs I found outrageous:      

One scoop ice cream cone in SF, $8.50 (3 euros or $3.24 at my local ice cream shop)
1 espresso coffee $4( here 1,80 euros or $1.95) And, you even get a cookie

       

1 small box of Tylenol 500mg (pain reliever like paracetamol) $8.  The equivalent here about 2 euros, $2.16

1 glass of house wine in a restaurant, $14. At restaurants I frequent here, usually from 5 to 8 euros, $5.40-$8.64.

In both San Francisco and southern France, prices vary from one locale to another. In most cases, however, San Francisco seems over the top. I was surprised to learn that prices in much of the US may not be significantly less. While walking through a supermarket with my brother Steve, I asked, “How can people afford these prices?”  “They can’t” he answered.  “That’s why Trump will become president.” Hope he’s wrong.

The above costs were bad enough, but the whopper for me was $16,700 for emergency room treatment and a night spent in “observation” at the University of California San Francisco hospital.

I tripped over a scooter parked half way on the sidewalk, fell, broke my wrist and smashed my face.  Hence the hospital.

Scooters are often parked on the sidewalk. I was looking across the street and did not notice the beast. Photo model: Steve Koester

I do not have Medicare, nor American health insurance.  In France I benefit from socialized medicine (most costs covered), but I have a travel/medical insurance. Let’s hope I get reimbursed.

The San Francisco visit was not vacation. I went to see my brother Tom who had been diagnosed with terminal cancer.  Sadly, he has since passed away, but I am grateful I had the opportunity to spend time with him. He was a special guy, very kind, generous and liked by all.

Fisherman’s Wharf. Tom’s apartment was not far from here.

Due to the accident, my stay in San Francisco was not as long as planned.  I had a cast from my wrist to my elbow and had been told to come back to the orthopedic clinic in two weeks.  Fortunately, after a week I returned to France and saw a specialist.  The wrist should have been operated on immediately after the accident, I learned.  The doctor was concerned that due to the time delay, the surgery might not be completely successful.  I am lucky. So far, all is on track.  

The surgery here has cost nothing.  I will need to pay the specialist his fee: 370 euros (about $400).  There would have been no extra charge for a regular hospital staff doctor.   Surgery in the US? That price tag would have added a heart attack to my woes.

The hospital bill was overwhelming.  Abby, the very caring intern assigned to me, insisted on numerous X-rays and cat scans. A cat scan of my head; $3,288; cat scan of spine, $4,734; shoulder X-ray, $402, plus other X-rays.  The charge for one night in observation, $6,780.  Not much happened.  I slept.  

There were plenty of other hefty charges. This was a simple broken wrist.  What happens to those in the US who have serious medical conditions and no medical insurance?  It’s criminal – both the exorbitant charges and the lack of insurance for all.

Enjoying a fabulous San Francisco pizza.
Me in the emergency room after the accident. My face has healed, but it got worse before better.

On the positive side, an aspect of the US I relish is people: friendly, helpful, smiling.   As I lay on the sidewalk with a bloody face and painful wrist, passers-by were eager to offer assistance. I was alone, in pain, in shock, not to mention somewhat frightened.  As readers of this blog know, I have recently had far more serious mishaps. I feared the worst. The concern from strangers was comforting.

One couple, nurses, determined I had broken my wrist.  The young woman gently wiped blood from my face.  Her partner called an ambulance.  Someone asked if I had been riding the scooter.  OMG! Had that been the case, I would not be writing this blog

View from Chinatown.

From taxi and Uber drivers to waiters and waitresses, from nurses to hotel personnel, I found people interesting, delightful, and not shy to converse and tell their stories.  A taxi driver from Vietnam, now a citizen, told me how he came to the US.  An Uber driver related the details of his job. A young Moroccan who pushed me in a wheel chair at the airport was happy with her job but missed her country.

They came from distant lands, not just those mentioned above.  Mexico. China.  Philippines. Ethiopia. Turkey. Nigeria…. Hard working folk, not drug addicts, rapists and criminals.  Immigrants make the US.  I can’t imagine how San Francisco would survive without them.  

As I read somewhere, the country is a quilt, far more interesting than a boring sheet. 

My San Francisco visit left little time for sightseeing.  If circumstances had been different and I had had time to experience the city’s attractions, perhaps I would have left my heart there too, not just my $.

Palace of Fine Arts. I enjoyed a walk in this beautiful area.

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